The quality of the 1985 vintage in Bordeaux has been argued over for some time. Everyone agrees it was good. But how good? For the very British palate of Michael Broadbent, it was pretty much perfect, five-star – ‘almost as entrancing as 1953’ but he notes as well ‘Not block-busters, Claret at it’s ingenuous best’. The lack of blockbusters might have been a problem for the American Robert Parker – who is notably less impressed with the vintage.
To my taste, even the very best wines like Lafite and Lynch-Bages, lack a certain quality to be found in their very best vintages. 1985 is missing perhaps just the extra concentration and fine detail that separates the good from the very best.
In Hampshire for a few days, we popped a bottle of Domaine de Chevalier, which was in a nice spot – probably fading but with no huge rush to drink. Very unforced, lovely fresh fruits on the nose. Small production of 4,500 cases this year.
A lovely producer, and nice people. I visited in 2008, escorting a Saudi collector, who was more interested in telling them how many cases of Petrus he owned then learning much about their operation, but they were very gracious and it remains one of my favorite Pessacs.
The night before, we entered the twilight zone with a bottle of 1966 Beaune 1er Cru from Bouchard Pere, certified by the Confrère de Chevaliers du Tastevin. This group awards prizes and endorsement for strong wines of the vintage through tasting alone. The label is not one you see much of today as the cult of producer is now the guiding sign of quality for better or worse, but in my experience their picks are often worth a bit more attention.
Whilst I have my Broadbent on my knee, he tells me that ‘at its best, a five star vintage, and if good wine to begin with, still marvelous to drink’. I can imagine a well stored Rousseau Chambertin would be quite incredible.
After opening the very unusual hard plastic capsule and butchering the cork with a rental corkscrew, this exploded in aromas of faded raspberry and strawberry into the decanter. It’s alive! Was very nice indeed and is performing about at the top level for a Beaune 1er Cru of nearly sixty years.