Tokay/Pinot Gris Altenbourg SGN Albert Mann (Half)
One of the best domaines in Alsace without a shadow of a doubt, of their 19 hectares, 5 are in Grand Cru sites. Very rich SGNS like this one. Lots of botryitis character.
Due to painfully low yields his plants produced in 2021, Thierry decided to create a one-off blend of old vines Pineau d’Aunis (130 year old!) from the Sarthe that would usually go into La Centenaire du Vauperroux, and Gamay (70-100 year old) from Touraine that would usually make up Les Maluseaux.
Gamay from a hundred year old plot, planted over granite some four hundred metres above sea level on the steep slopes of Chiroubles. Fermented as whole bunches for a fortnight, the wine spent nine months resting in concrete eggs.
Declassified Beaujolais-Villages that features Gamay from a number of parcels around Villié-Morgon. The grapes were fermented as whole bunches for a fortnight, before a short rest in concrete eggs.
Declassified Beaujolais-Villages that features Gamay from a number of parcels around Villié-Morgon. The grapes were fermented as whole bunches for a fortnight, before a short rest in concrete eggs
`An aromatic of energy – mineral, almost steely red fruit – freshness too. Good depth and supple concentration but with a lovely finishing freshness – long, haunting flavours in the finish but subtle – this is no broad or powerful finish – just a very elegant wine.`Bill Nanson
Among the elite of Beaujolais, Breton`s 3000 case production is spread quite thinly, he has a big following in the restaurant sector in France, owing, largely due to the way in which poise, elegance and ageability and combined with sheer, joyous drinkability.
Among the elite of Beaujolais, Breton`s 3000 case production is spread quite thinly, he has a big following in the restaurant sector in France, owing, largely I think to the way in which poise, elegance and ageability and combined with sheer, joyous drinkability.
Among the elite of Beaujolais, Breton`s 3000 case production is spread quite thinly, he has a big following in the restaurant sector in France, owing, largely I think to the way in which poise, elegance and ageability and combined with sheer, joyous drinkability.
Cuvée was born from the uncommonly bad conditions in 2021. Another original blend, this time of old vines Gamay planted over granite and quartz on the steep slopes of Chiroubles and Chénas.
Among the elite of Beaujolais, Breton`s 3000 case production is spread quite thinly, he has a big following in the restaurant sector in France, owing, largely I think to the way in which poise, elegance and ageability and combined with sheer, joyous drinkability.
Among the elite of Beaujolais, Breton`s 3000 case production is spread quite thinly, he has a big following in the restaurant sector in France, owing, largely I think to the way in which poise, elegance and ageability and combined with sheer, joyous drinkability.
`One of the fabulous surprises, although I had suggested last year that it could jump in quality, of my tastings, the 2006 Lafite Rothschild is a great, great wine made from a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot. When I tasted it from barrel, it reminded me of their successful 1988, but it is dramatically superior to that vintage. Frankly, it may turn out to be as good as the 2005, which in all of Bordeaux is a far greater vintage than 2006. Lafite`s severe selection process (42% made it into the grand vin) resulted in a full-bodied wine boasting an extraordinary perfume of charcoal, truffles, lead pencil shavings, and sensationally sweet, ripe black currant and cedar notes. A wine of extraordinary intensity, texture, and depth with silky tannins as well as awesome concentration, this has turned out to be a remarkable Lafite Rothschild that should be drinkable much earlier than the 2005, but age for three decades. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2035+.` 97 Points Robert Parker
1988 is a vintage of good, but hardly remarkable ripeness, and in the context of all the other stellar vintages in this decade in Bordeaux, it stands out a bit stylistically. However, at least with the Pichon-Lalande, the 1988 is hardly a weak link and the wine is outstanding in its very classical styling and proportions. The bouquet offers up a lovely, cool fruit blend of cassis, dark berries, menthol, tobacco leaf, gravel, cigar smoke and a judicious foundation of toasty new oak. On the palate the wine is fullish, pure and impeccably balanced, with a good solid core, melting tannins and fine focus and grip on the long, complex and very classy finish. This does not have the exotic topnotes of a sunnier vintage, but it has a lovely base of Pichon’s inimitable terroir and has no cause to apologize for anything! Fine, fine juice cut from an utterly classical cloth and a dramatically underrated vintage of Pichon-Lalande` 92 Points John Gilman
`It is an understatement to say these are the greatest wines I have ever tasted from Monbazillac; in fact, they are among the greatest sweet wines I have tasted ... from anywhere!` Robert Parker
`The 2012 Château Olivier Blanc is quite good this year, with again, just a touch too much new wood for its own good, but lovely complexity and mid-palate stuffing. The fine bouquet offers up scents of green apple, fresh fig, grassy tones, lime peel and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and intensely flavored, with a fine core, crisp acids and very good length and grip on the finish. The oak here is a bit heavy-handed on the palate, but the wine has enough stuffing to carry it. Not bad and could have been exceptional with better wood philosophy.` 88 Points John Gilman
50% Sauvignon Blanc and 50% Sauvignon Gris from vines grown organically and harvested by hand. Three weeks of maceration of the two grape varieties in whole bunches, soft pressing, short aging in terracotta small amphorae tiny sulphur.
0.43 hectare plot cultivated by young Julien Petitjean. A questing vigneron who spent ten years looking for land with character that he could farm in an organic spirit.
Gamay from a hundred year old plot, planted over granite some four hundred metres above sea level on the steep slopes of Chiroubles. Fermented as whole bunches for a fortnight, the wine spent nine months resting in concrete eggs. 11.5%
`The 2017 Chambertin Clos-de-Beze Grand Cru has a wonderful nose of pure dark berry fruit, crushed stone and touches of undergrowth and tobacco. This seems to grow in the glass. The palate is ripe and slightly pinched on the entry, a touch of soy infusing the red berry fruit. Structured on the finish, but it feels just a little angular at the moment. Give it time to smooth out its creases. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting. [Neal Martin] 94 Points
`The 2015 Chambertin from Domaine Trapet is utterly brilliant, as it is a big, massive and utterly poised and refined example of the vintage. The heroically proportioned wine is still the essence of Chambertin, as it delivers a brilliant bouquet of black plums, red and black cherries, raw cocoa, grilled meats, a very complex base of soil tones, a touch of graphite and a refined framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and simply bottomless at the core, with a great synthesis of soil signature and sappy, pure fruit. The finish is endless, with fine-grained tannins, lovely acids and stunning complexity. This is one of the wines of the vintage in 2015, without a doubt! 2030-2100` 98 Points John Gilman
From an English Cellar where the wines have sat since purchase - superlative storage and levels but some damage to some labels - please enquire for pics
A lovely vineyard selection from Etelois, which sits next to the grand cru Chapelle-Chambertin and premier cru ‘Petite Chapelle’ in Gevrey. 60 year old vines.
After a few years under the mythical eye of Becky Wasserman, Alex Gambal set out to create a small negoce firm. Originally buying juice, then almost exclusively grapes at the end of the decade, he built up a strong reputation for quality and value. Aided, no doubt by some of the relationships he established with Becky and his easy-going natural charm. When he sold the concern to the Boisset`s he retained a cellar of small quantities of his past vintages
1.5 hectare plot cultivated by young Julien Petitjean. A questing vigneron who spent ten years looking for land with character that he could farm in an organic spirit.
`The 2018 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is even darker than the Bonnes-Mares. It has a spectacular bouquet of intense black fruit, blueberries and shucked oyster shells, the mineralité heightened over the Bonnes-Mares and lending a great deal of precision. The palate is medium-bodied with blueberry, boysenberry and black currant fruit, extraordinary tension, razor-sharp acidity and a dash of white pepper on the crystalline finish. One of the finest Musignys I have tasted from barrel at de Vogüé` 97-99 Points Neal Martin
` Full ruby. Spicy aromas of blackberry, violet, bitter chocolate, Oriental spices and mint. Dense and sweet, with ripe but bright black fruit flavors. Finishes with sweet tannins and very good persistence.` 86-89 Points Steven Tanzer
Nuits-St-Georges 1er Les Saint-Georges Henri Gouges
`The 2009 Gouges Les St. Georges is a profound young wine. The kaleidoscopically complex nose delivers a brilliant mélange of red and black cherries, pomegranate, plenty of blood orange, raw cocoa, woodsmoke, gamebirds, a touch of lead pencil and a beautiful topnote of violets. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very, very pure on the attack, with flawless balance, a sappy, bottomless core, stunning complexity, fine-grained tannins and a multi-faceted, brilliantly focused and near perfect long finish. As fine a young wine from Domaine Gouges as I have ever had the pleasure to taste, the 2009 Les St. Georges is a legend in the making.` 97 Points John Gilman
`I love the style and shape of the 2021 les Vergelesses from Chisa Bize. The wine is not overly powerful in profile, but deep, intensely flavored, soil-driven and supremely elegant. It will be a magical addition to any well-stocked cellar, if one is lucky enough to find any in the market. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a very complex blend of sweet dark berries, black cherries, coffee bean, a complex base of minerality, pigeon, woodsmoke, sweet stem tones and a deft touch of cedar. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and seamlessly balanced, with a superb core, fine-grained tannins, excellent complexity and grip and a long, focused and very classy finish. Simply a beautiful bottle. 2033-2085` 94 Points John Gilman
`This is one of Dominique Lafon’s best wines of the 1990s and easily surpasses the 1995. It has a wonderful bouquet that is very focused: raspberry, a touch of cassis, Indian ink and just a suggestion of singed leather. It has a sweet entry on the palate that is underpinned by fine tannins and an elegant, sensual finish that lacquers but never oppresses the mouth. There is wonderful tension and purity in this Volnay, perhaps in some ways auguring the style of wine post-2000. You can drink this now, though I would prefer to leave the 1996 another five years because there is a lot to come. Drink now-2026.` 94 Points Neal Martin
`The les Grands Poisots is the Volnay village wine from Louis Boillot and it too is lovely this year. The deep, pure and nascently complex nose jumps from the glass in a blend of cassis, black cherries, espresso, violets and a beautiful base of chalky soil tones. On the palate the wine is deep, fullish, pure and intensely flavored, with a sappy core of black fruit, tangy acids, suave tannins and excellent focus and balance on the long and soil-driven finish. Lovely juice. (Drink between 2017-2040)` 91 Points John Gilman
From a 0.15 hectare (!) parcel on the steeper upper slope shelf directly above the 1er crus les Malconsorts and les Gaudichots, two barrels made. Vines planted in 1934/1935. A 1er cru in all but name.
Gamay from a hundred year old plot, planted over granite some four hundred metres above sea level on the steep slopes of Chiroubles. Fermented as whole bunches for a fortnight, the wine spent nine months resting in concrete eggs. 11.5%
Charles Ballot is propelling this white-focussed estate to heights occupied by Roulot, Jobard and Ente. Exceptional value for the time being, but the market is clearly catching up on these wines. The Bourgogne Blanc is from fruit only from within Meursault and Puligny Villages. 580 cases produced.
Not to be confused with the 1er Cru Montmains, these vineyards are located in the commune of Beines, opposite the 1er Vau de Vey. This is a medium depth hillside, with a lovely exposure and gives wines of great complexity and drinkability. Quantities remain small here, only about 400 cases are produced.
Chardonnay from a small parcel of hundred year old vines planted over pure limestone. This was given a long, slow and gentle press before a year of élevage in old barriques.
From a vineyard in the 1920s, there are fewer and fewer viable vines in this vineyard - now production is limited to about 74 cases. Fresh in style and capable of being enjoyed not or in twenty years.
Voted the best domestic rose by Eric Asimov in the NYT a year or so ago - the first vintage was 2006 and he was inspired by a Beaujolais vigneron who was doing the same thing. He thinks there`s a tenderness to the aromas and textural nature of the grape that amplifies the juicieness and energy of the wine. Fruit from Witters vineyard, about 1000 meters up - on red, volcanic clay. Also a bit from Barsotti which is more granitey and gives a little more structure.
`The NV Brut Cuvée Ste.-Anne is one of the best Champagnes readers will find in its price range, or any price range, for that matter. Bright and beautifully focused, the Ste.-Anne has so much to offer. The purity of the flavors is just remarkable. If anything, it needs more time on the cork to soften, as it is quite reticent at this stage. This release is based on 2017, with reserve wines from 2016 and 2015. The blend is 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Meunier, with the Chardonnay very much in evidence at this stage. Dosage is 5.15 grams/liter. Disgorged: February, 2020.` 92 Points Antonio Galloni
`The 2015 Les Couarres (Pinot Noir), is ample, creamy and wonderfully expressive. The natural breadth of Pinot comes through beautifully. Vinification in oak brings out striking vinous intensity in the red plum, spice, leather and crushed flower flavors. Although the 2015 has plenty of depth to age, it is incredibly appealing now. Dosage is 6 grams per liter. Disgorged: June, 2020.` 93 Points Antonio Galloni
`The NV Brut Cuvée Ste.-Anne is one of the best Champagnes readers will find in its price range, or any price range, for that matter. Bright and beautifully focused, the Ste.-Anne has so much to offer. The purity of the flavors is just remarkable. If anything, it needs more time on the cork to soften, as it is quite reticent at this stage. This release is based on 2017, with reserve wines from 2016 and 2015. The blend is 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Meunier, with the Chardonnay very much in evidence at this stage. Dosage is 5.15 grams/liter. Disgorged: February, 2020.` 92 Points Antonio Galloni
50% Chardonnay from David Leclappart in Trépail, 25% Pinot Noir from Benoît Lahaye in Grand Cru Bouzy and 25% Meunier from Georges Laval in Cumières. Having spent 10 months in Allier oak before bottling, and nine years on the lees
`The 2018 Extra-Brut Chemin de Reims, 100% Chardonnay, deftly marries varietal expression with the tremendous resonance all the wines show in 2018. Citrus peel, crushed rocks, chamomile and dried herbs are all amplified in a Blanc de Blancs that presents the more savory, earthy side of Chardonnay. Even with all its obvious textural intensity and sheer power, the 2018 remains bright and nicely lifted throughout. There is a feeling of translucence here that is beguiling. This is Montagne de Reims Chardonnay at its finest. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: February 2023. (Drink between 2025-2033)` 95 Points Antonio Galloni
One of the favourie Champagnes of Jerome Prevost - Alexandre Lamblot is part of a new wave of ambitious young vignerons making tiny quantites of exhilerating Champagne. _x000D_
Dissonance is 70% Meunier and 30% Chardonnay and comes from Vrigny. Usually around 700 bottles produced. `The NV (2017) Brut Nature Dissonance is a 70% Meunier/30% Chardonnay blend from vines in Vrigny. It is one of the richer, more textured wines in this range. Like all the Lamblot Champagnes, the Dissonance is quite ample in feel, with notable textural resonance that grows over time. Tangerine peel, dried flowers, pear and lightly oxidative overtones linger. Production is a miniscule 700 bottles. Disgorged: February 7, 2022.` 94 Points Antonio Galloni
Enfant de la Montagne 1er Cru Bertrand-Delespierre
Disgorged 05/2023 - This sublime value grower Champagne comes from a blend of vineyards in the Montagne de Reims. 45 / 35 PN to Chardonnay - it is based on the 2019 vintage. Very vinous in its compotision with low dosage.
Fosse Grely was where Bénédicte’s father first planted vines back in the 1980s. Surrounded by forest where fauna and flora thrive, the vines here are on a S/SW facing slope in a thin layer (40cm) of red clay with lots of little stones and thick compacted limestone beneath. Aged for nine months in fûts and demi-muids, and then for 20 months `sur lattes`
One of the favourie Champagnes of Jerome Prevost - Alexandre Lamblot is part of a new wave of ambitious young vignerons making tiny quantites of exhilerating Champagne. _x000D_
Frenesie is 100% Pinot Meunier from the 1er Cru Vrigny.
The traditional method adds volume but also refinement in terms of mousse and tannic detail. New yeast driven notes are introduced creating a very different cider to the Pétillant Naturel ciders.
A blend of the best keeved cider produced in a single year blended with a small amount of the best non-keeved cider. The keeved cider contributes apple sweetness and the non-keeved cider adds interest and ensures fizz. This Pétillant Naturel cider is a generous expression of classic West Country cider varieties with warmth and a tannic structure.
A blend of keeved and non-keeved cider, the proportions varying year by year, and is Pétillant Naturel. It is drier than the Reserve but still carries some keeved cider sweetness balancing the tannic structure and acidity.
`This will most likely also end up as an auction bottling, and I am very pleased that Herr Dönnhoff kept the two Brücke auslesen separate, as they are both compelling in their own right. The number 2 Brücke is even deeper and purer than the first example, as the wine offers up a brilliant mélange of pear, cherries, banana, lilacs and a mineral bath of immense proportion. On the palate the wine is simply an essence of wine, with its medium-full format both weightless and bottomless. The focus and balance here are flawless, the acids bright and tensile, and the finish and endless cascade of minerality. Rather an impressive glass of wine. (Drink between 2012-2040) 98 point` John Gilman
`Helmut Dönnhoff noted that the 2017 Brücke Goldkapsel Auslese includes about thirty percent botrytized grapes, with the rest of the bunches comprised of perfectly golden berries. The wine has a must weight of one hundred and ten Oechsle and 10.8 grams per liter of acidity this year. The youthful nose is flat out beautiful, offering up scents of pear, white cherries, a touch of passion fruit, honeycomb, fruit blossoms and a nice touch of salty minerality. On the palate the wine is fullish, pure and vibrant, with a lovely core of fruit, juicy complexity and fine focus and grip on the long, balanced and nicely salty finish. A superb bottle in the making. (Drink between 2023-2085)` 95+ points. John Gilman.
`This will most likely also end up as an auction bottling, and I am very pleased that Herr Dönnhoff kept the two Brücke auslesen separate, as they are both compelling in their own right. The number 2 Brücke is even deeper and purer than the first example, as the wine offers up a brilliant mélange of pear, cherries, banana, lilacs and a mineral bath of immense proportion. On the palate the wine is simply an essence of wine, with its medium-full format both weightless and bottomless. The focus and balance here are flawless, the acids bright and tensile, and the finish and endless cascade of minerality. Rather an impressive glass of wine. (Drink between 2012-2040) 98 point` John Gilman
`I imagine that the Brücke Auslese also has a fair bit of botrytis to it, but it does not make itself felt in anywhere the same manner as in the Kupfergrube. The nose on the 2006 is deep, pure and primary, as it offers up notes of cherries, tangerine, bee pollen, floral tones and a serious mother load of minerality. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and pure, with laser-like focus, gem-like transparency, brisk acids, and simply stunning cut and grip on the very long, pure and ethereal finish. Another magnificent 2006 wine from Helmut Dönnhoff. (Drink between 2017-2050) 95 points.` John Gilman
`Like the Felsenberg Auslese, the Brücke regular Auslese in 2007 (there will be a Goldkapsel as well from this vineyard this year) is so gently glazed by botrytis that it offers up remarkably purity and precision on both the nose and palate. The bouquet is a glorious blend of apple, peach, honeycomb, petrol, slate and sweet grapefruit. On the palate the wine is fullish, pure and racy, with a rock solid core of fruit, with beautiful soil inflection, great length and grip, bright acids and a very, very long, focused and impressively delicate and ethereal finish. The Brücke vineyard is usually the most prone to vigorous botrytis amongst the Dönnhoff roster, and consequently this very gentle shriveled personality is quite novel and captivating. A beautiful wine in the making that should age for a very long time. (Drink between 2016-2050)` 95 points, John Gilman
`The 2009 Brücke Gold Kap is a beautiful bottle of gently botrytized Auslese glazed to near perfection. The stunning nose jumps from the glass in a blend of yellow plums, tangerines, petrol, honeycomb, slate, white cherries and a zesty topnote of orange zest. On the palate the wine is deep, fullish, crisp and laser-like in its focus, with great mid-palate depth, flawless focus and balance and superb complexity on the long, snappy finish. A classic bottle of Auslese in the making. (Drink between 2018-2050)` 93+ points, John Gilman.
`.For several decades, Helmut Dönnhoff has been of the opinion that an Auslese is a wine that needs botrytis and every example here has been a botrytized wine, at least to some degree. So, it is a great rarity to find not one, but two completely clean Auslesen in the family’s cellars this year made from golden and shriveled berries and no noble rot. The 2018 Brücke Auslese is a beautiful wine in the making, offering up a lovely aromatic constellation of pear, white cherries, honeycomb, bee pollen, apple blossoms and a lovely foundation of salty, slate minerality. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and nascently complex, with a lovely core, great focus and grip, snappy acids and a very long, dancing and still quite youthful finish. (Drink between 2030-2090)` 95 points, John Gilman.
From a really talented young producer who tends his family vinyard, Roccalini - A spot the professor Bruno Giacosa long knew was a source of fine grapes as he was one of the first customers for Paulo Veglio when he was starting off.
From a really talented young producer who tends his family vinyard, Roccalini - A spot the professor Bruno Giacosa long knew was a source of fine grapes as he was one of the first customers for Paulo Veglio when he was starting off.
`Burlotto’s 2013 Barolo Cannubi is a showstopper. Literally. Conversation stops as attendees taste the 2013. This is what top-flight Barolo is all about. In 2013, the Monvigliero has gotten most of the attention, and for good reason. It is a truly monumental wine. But the Cannubi is not that far behind. On this night, it is positively dazzling and every bit as profound as it has always been. The Cannubi has really soared in recent years as proprietor Fabio Alessandria has brought it inline stylistically with his other wines.` 97 Points Antonio Galloni
`While Monvigliero gets most of the attention at Burlotto, the Cannubi is often nearly as compelling, and in 2014, it is perhaps a touch more complete. Mesmerizingly vivid and beautiful, the 2014 is deep, powerful and beautifully layered on the palate, with fabulous balance and irresistible allure. In this tasting, I find the Cannubi fleshier and more generous than the Monvigliero. In the cool vintage, the exposure and soils of Cannubi were probably a bit more favorable than those of Monvigliero. Incidentally, a recent bottle of the 2013 more than lived up to the lofty praise I bestowed upon it a year ago. (Drink between 2022-2044)`95+ Antonio Galloni
A blend of vineyards in the style of Bartollo Mascarello comes together in this micro-cuvee. Having worked with Maria Teresa, Alan Manley works sites in Monforte, Faletto, Barolo and Serrulunga. One of the most exciting new sources in the region. Only just over 120 cases produced.
`Accommasso`s 2012 Barolo is quite attractive. Tart cherry, tobacco, cedar and dried flowers are all nicely layered. There is more than enough brightness and overall energy to allow the 2012 to age well for many years to come. I would prefer to cellar the 2012 for at least a few years, as the tannins are gritty and in need of bottle age to soften. This pleasantly rustic and expressive Barolo will appeal to readers who enjoy traditionally made wines` 93 Points Antonio Galloni
“The 2017 Barolo Perarmando is a wine Marco and Tiziana Parusso made to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the first vintage bottled by their father, Armando. It is a blend of the estate`s vineyards, approximately 50% Bussia, 30% Mosconi and 20% Mariondino. Absolutely stellar from the very first taste, the Perarmando is compelling. Sweet rose petal, mint, sage and red berry nuances lift from the glass. A touch of whole clusters add character without overpowering the wine`s balance, which is magnificent. This is such a glorious Barolo and one of the wines of the vintage.” 96 Points Antonio Galloni
`The 2016 Carema Riserva is another knock-out effort from the Produttori di Carema, the local cooperative that has really been on fire these last few vintages. Open-knit and inviting, but with all the complexity that is so typical of the appellation, the 2016 is superb. Crushed flowers, mint, sweet tobacco, cedar and licorice are all woven together in a super-expressive Carema that offers tons of complexity in a relatively accessible style for a young wine from the appellation. The Riserva is a selection of the best casks in the cellar, with the wine aged for an added year in cask, so three years’ in neutral oak in total. That extra year in oak vis-à-vis the Classico does take with it some of the fruit while emphasizing more savory and mineral qualities. Power and finesse come together so well in this textbook Carema.` Score: 95 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com
`The 1996 Vigna d`Alceo is just beginning to show the earliest signs of tertiary complexity. Licorice, smoke, underbrush, menthol, plums and dark cherries all flesh out in this beautifully layered, sumptuous Vigna d`Alceo. With some air, the 1996 can be enjoyed today, but it also has the stuffing to age well for another 15-20 years. What a great showing` 97 Points, Antonio Galloni
A small 3 hectare estate on the on the island of Pantelleria off the Sicilian Coast. Francesco Ferreri is one of the partners and native to the Island. After seeing his Grandfather make wines he wanted to return to the island and refind the pathways of the old hands that made wine on this extraodinary place before the youth left and big agriculture and lazy winemaking took over.
A small 3 hectare estate on the on the island of Pantelleria off the Sicilian Coast. Francesco Ferreri is one of the partners and native to the Island. After seeing his Grandfather make wines he wanted to return to the island and refind the pathways of the old hands that made wine on this extraodinary place before the youth left and big agriculture and lazy winemaking took over.
A small 3 hectare estate on the on the island of Pantelleria off the Sicilian Coast. Francesco Ferreri is one of the partners and native to the Island. After seeing his Grandfather make wines he wanted to return to the island and refind the pathways of the old hands that made wine on this extraodinary place before the youth left and big agriculture and lazy winemaking took over.
A small 3 hectare estate on the on the island of Pantelleria off the Sicilian Coast. Francesco Ferreri is one of the partners and native to the Island. After seeing his Grandfather make wines he wanted to return to the island and refind the pathways of the old hands that made wine on this extraodinary place before the youth left and big agriculture and lazy winemaking took over.
Grechetto Rosso, a local strain of Sangiovese, forty year old vines. and a year resting in neutral chestnut casks. Extremely pure and expressive. No sulphur
Effectively their `Riserva`- old Sangiovese bush vines in the ‘La Chiesa’ vineyard then large, neutral old casks for two years. Just coming to maturity. No sulphur 11% ALC
Effectively their `Riserva`- old Sangiovese bush vines in the ‘La Chiesa’ vineyard then large, neutral old casks for two years. Just coming to maturity. No sulphur 13.5% ALC
Sagrantino di Montefalco Pagliaro Secco Paolo Bea (Magnum)
Pure Sagrantino grown on the prized hilltop site of Pagliaro, situated at 1300 feet above sea level. The wines are aged for one year in stainless steel, another two years in large Slavonian oak barrels. Less than a 10000 bottles this vintage. Alcohol: 15%
`Interestingly, the 2011 Disobedient is a bit fresher than the 2010 tasted alongside it. Of course, the 2011 is in barrel, while the 2010 has been bottled recently (and may be recovering from bottle shock), but today, the 2011 has a slight edge over the 2010. Ample, layered and voluptuous on the palate, the 2011 is simply gorgeous today. Ripe, silky tannins wrap around a core of deeply spiced notes, menthol, sage, licorice and dark fruit. The creamy, enveloping finish only adds to the wine`s considerable appeal. My impression today is that the 2011 will reward readers with a long and broad window of pure drinking pleasure. This is a fabulous showing`. 93-95 Pts Antonio Galloni
Zibibbo bush vines (alberello Pantesco) from different contradas, with various altitudes and expositions. Grown mostly on pumice-heavy `soki soki` soils (see profile), the parcels were vinified separately undergoing different lengths of maceration – from one night to a week – based on ripeness and aromatics of the skins. Low yields bring concentration, intensity, and balance. Aged on fine lees in 6yo barrels and stainless steel, and bottled with the addition of 15% `riserva perpetua` started in 2018. This is fragrant, almost medicinal, with moreish mediterranean herbs, a perfect balance of texture and tension, and a lengthy salivating finish. A stunning wine with high drinkability. Total SO2 15mg/l.
A small 3 hectare estate on the on the island of Pantelleria off the Sicilian Coast. Francesco Ferreri is one of the partners and native to the Island. After seeing his Grandfather make wines he wanted to return to the island and refind the pathways of the old hands that made wine on this extraodinary place before the youth left and big agriculture and lazy winemaking took over.
When Catherine decided to start as a vigneron, she pitched up with Emmanuel Houillon and his mentor, Pierre Overnoy and gradually started putting together a small Domaine – She has about 3.2 hectares around Marnoz and Arbois. She exploits about 1.5 hectares of this, ploughing with a donkey and a horse.
The lieu-dit Combernand, also known as La Cluse des Peintres, is in the village of Rossillon halfway between Argis and Belley. 40yo vines of chardonnay and aligoté on glacial moraine soils – formed when the glaciers melted down, depositing a thick and compacted layer of rolled pebbles. Vinified in old demi-muids and bottled without sulphur. 10mg/l added at bottling
The Chateau Chalon - top cuvee of the domaine has received five stars from La Revue du Vin de France, its highest rating. Usually needs about 10 years to peak, where it`ll continue to slowly improve for a generation.
Bourdy are one of the great names of Chateau Chalon and they always keep stocks of their older wines in order to release them later with significant bottle age. They use an old school method of offering `first tranche` pricing on the current release then putting the rest in the cellar where it increases in cost every 12 months thereafter.
The Chateau Chalon - top cuvee of the domaine has received five stars from La Revue du Vin de France, its highest rating. Usually needs about 10 years to peak, where it`ll continue to slowly improve for a generation.
Bourdy are one of the great names of Chateau Chalon and they always keep stocks of their older wines in order to release them later with significant bottle age. They use an old school method of offering `first tranche` pricing on the current release then putting the rest in the cellar where it increases in cost every 12 months thereafter.
Bourdy are one of the great names of Chateau Chalon and they always keep stocks of their older wines in order to release them later with significant bottle age. They use an old school method of offering `first tranche` pricing on the current release then putting the rest in the cellar where it increases in cost every 12 months thereafter.
Bourdy are one of the great names of Chateau Chalon and they always keep stocks of their older wines in order to release them later with significant bottle age. They use an old school method of offering `first tranche` pricing on the current release then putting the rest in the cellar where it increases in cost every 12 months thereafter.
Trousseau from vines over fifty years old planted over Jurassic marls in Les Corvées. The grapes were destemmed and spent eight months maceration in cuve with no pigeage or remontage.
When Catherine decided to start as a vigneron, she pitched up with Emmanuel Houillon and his mentor, Pierre Overnoy and gradually started putting together a small Domaine – She has about 3.2 hectares around Marnoz and Arbois. She exploits about 1.5 hectares of this, ploughing with a donkey and a horse.
Aviets wines are some of the greatest in Jura - the process is traditional, and nothing has changed much it seems here - worth decanting the reds as they can be a bit reduced on first opening, but they blossom beautifully with air or time in the cellar.
Equal amounts of Poulsard Trousseau & Pinot Noir A traditional `old-school` blend only made when yields are too low to bottle the three varieties separately. Destemmed, vinified and aged as per the other reds, the grapes were harvested and pressed together. 12.5% abv
Macerated Chadonnay - single plot Patarate in Rotalier, 80yo vines on grey marl and limestone bedrock. Vinified and aged in wooden foudres for 20 months before being bottled naked" i.e. without sulphites added"
Ultra Long Maceration: 8 months to be precise- This was a bit of an experimental blend of 45% Pinot Noir and 55% Chardonnay from old vines in “Les Nouvelles”. The white and red grapes are kept in whole bunches and fermented together on the skins. Reflecting the vintage, this is light, bright and delicately perfumed.
50-year-old vines Cabernet Franc vines from a 2-hectare parcel, on lots of clay, then friable chalk, the limestone rock table 12 meters under the surface no filtration, no fining, only sulphur seen is 10mg sulphur at bottling..
`Sourced from a single vineyard located at the bottom of Chinon`s slope on alluvial/clay soils, the 2019 Chinon Les Grézeaux is currently a bit shy in terms of revealing its fruit flavors. It’s also a hint reductive with its smoky bacon characters, but that`s unimportant. What matters is the core of fruit and excellent focus. It`s very relaxed and fluid with mouthwatering acidity. The tannins are more serious than the front and midpalate would have suggested and betray a little grittiness. Aged 15 months in cement, this could be opened in one to two years, but the concentration and structure offer drinking over a decade.` 93 Points, Rebecca Gibb, Vinous
One of the most iconic wines in the Loire Valley, from perhaps the greatest terroir in Chinon. Capable of improving over at least twenty years. For now, still available at an unbelievably low tariff given the quality.
Oliver Cousin`s final full vintage, he has now passed everything over to his son Baptiste... 65 year old Cabernet Franc , Black loam infused with deep beds of limestone aged in a large wood tank (500 Liters) for 18 months. no sulphur. A true gardener/ vigneron/ activist / horse whisperer who has stood trial for his farming methods.
A rising star in Saumur - well emeshed into the local winemaking community with friends Antoine Sanzay, Thierry Germain and Antoine Foucault, the wines of Petit Saint-Vincent are for the time being, a real insiders game.
The now retired Bruno began converting his vineyards to organic back in 1995, convinced to stop using sulphites by Thierry Puzelat in 2005 with likeminds- Noella Morantin, Paul and Corinne Gillet, Joël Courtault. 40-year-old Cabernet Franc Grapes hand harvested. Élevage for one year in old barrels. Zero sulfites added.
`The 2020 Bourgueil Rosé d`Equinoxe is a Blanc de Noirs made from Cabernet Franc. It`s dry and matured in oak, giving a seamless roundness while lending structure. A twist of tannic grip on the finish makes this a really pleasing, food-friendly win.` 90 Points, Rebecca Gibb, Vinous
A small, 1 hecrtare parcel of Chenin Blanc makes one of the best iterations in the region. Farmed organically and fermented with native yeasts, aged on its lees. Production is tiny.
`Philippe Delesvaux`s 1997s are to Coteaux du Layon what Mr. Universe is to manhood - huge freaks of nature that are both fascinating and unreal. The 1997s may be over-the-top. The 1997 Coteaux du Layon Carbonifera contains 459 grams of residual sugar per liter. It is anybody`s guess as to how it will cope with cellaring as there is no empirical basis with which to judge the ageworthiness of such an unusual wine with relatively low alcohol and acidity combined with such stratospheric sugar levels. My instincts suggest consumption over the next 5-6 years.` 95 Points Pierre Rovani
A leader of the biodynamic movement in the Loire valley. Mark Angeli`s 7 hectare property has not just produced wines with a real sense of character and integrity, but has been an anchor for a new constellation of talent in the region, inspired by his wine, welcoming advice and enthusiam.
Boulay`s wines deserve much better recogniton, as they are clearly in the same bracket as those of Francois Cotat - to whom they show a lot of similarity. Incredibly ageworthy, pure and transparent transmissions of terroir.
A very hotly tipped name amongst the Angevin Cavistes - Dominique Dufour retired some time ago to his home in Rablay-Sur-Layon in Anjou and started making natural wine from an old vineyard just outside the village. His 0.7 hectares is at the top of the slope, the bottom he sublets to Mai and Kenji Hodgeson. This vineyard is very close to Les Noels that his friend Richard Leroy cultivates and there are similarities in the their approaches. One wine is produced a year - a dry chenin. In exceptionally warm years a late harvested version is added and bottled in 50cl bottles.
A very hotly tipped name amongst the Angevin Cavistes - Dominique Dufour retired some time ago to his home in Rablay-Sur-Layon in Anjou and started making natural wine from an old vineyard just outside the village. His 0.7 hectares is at the top of the slope, the bottom he sublets to Mai and Kenji Hodgeson. This vineyard is very close to Les Noels that his friend Richard Leroy cultivates and there are similarities in the their approaches. One wine is produced a year - a dry chenin. In exceptionally warm years a late harvested version is added and bottled in 50cl bottles.
Vin de France Le Grand Clos Thomas Batardiere (Magnum)
Young Vines for Batardiere but these are within the `Esprit Libre` Vineyard are on eroded shist soils, just to the east of the village of Rablay – Bottled in Magnum only!
The Clos des Cocus is Thomas’ 0.6ha plot (planted in 1968) a climat neighbouring Montbenault on the coteau of Faye d’Anjou is at the top of the hill therefore exposed to drying and cooling winds
Vin de France Nectar d`Empyrees Aussigouins Dufour (50cl)
A very hotly tipped name amongst the Angevin Cavistes - Dominique Dufour retired some time ago to his home in Rablay-Sur-Layon in Anjou and started making natural wine from an old vineyard just outside the village. His 0.7 hectares is at the top of the slope, the bottom he sublets to Mai and Kenji Hodgeson. This vineyard is very close to Les Noels that his friend Richard Leroy cultivates and there are similarities in the their approaches. One wine is produced a year - a dry chenin. In exceptionally warm years a late harvested version is added and bottled in 50cl bottles.
`Hugely intense and liqueur-like. A bit like a Kumeu River Chardonnay compote. Really dense and jewelly and long. Almost flashy! Drink 2019-2035`18 Points Jancis Robinson
A very youthful deep garnet core with ruby rim. This has a much more precocious nose than the -83 with ripe blackberry, raspberry coulis, black olives and a certain minerality to it. Very fresh and well defined, the palate is full-bodied, certainly more structured and complex than the previous two declarations. Notes of black cherry, fig, raisin with a hint of savoury fruit towards the finish that has great length and refinement. Still in its youth, this has great potential and might be over-shadowed by the ensuing two vintages. Tasted November 2007. [Neal Martin, 01/11/2007]
Anders Frederik Steen & Anne Bruun Blauert C`Etait Bien...
Unusual oxidative blend that combines Caberent Sauvignon from Le Mazel in Valvigne`res with Gewürztraminer from the Bannwarth family in Obermorschwihr, Alsace. both pressed directly and later blended into barrels, where they spent three years ageing without ever being topped up
Anders Frederik Steen & Anne Bruun Blauert Comme un Double.. (50cl)
Oxidative rosé is a blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Sylvaner and Muscat harvested with the Bannwarth family in Obermorschwihr, Alsace. A true field blend, all varieties were picked together, left to macerate for around four days, then moved to cuve to rest outside in the elements for one year at which point the wine was racked to old barrels for a further two years of ageing
Anders Frederik Steen & Anne Bruun Blauert I Was Born In.. (50cl)
Pinot Gris from the gorgeous vineyards of Famille Bannwarth in Obermorschwihr, Alsace. Here the grapes macerated for a couple of days, before being pressed straight to barrel for four years of ageing without topping up.
Anders Frederik Steen & Anne Bruun Blauert Parfois Je Monte.. (50cl)
Oxidative rosé is a blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Sylvaner and Muscat harvested with the Bannwarth family in Obermorschwihr, Alsace. A true field blend, all varieties were picked together, left to macerate for around four days, then moved to cuve to rest outside in the elements for one year at which point the wine was racked to old barrels for a further two years of ageing
Direct press Petillant from Chardonnay, Viognier and Grenache Noir from Domaine du Mazel in Valvigne`res, aged for one year sur lie before disgorgement.
Long press of Viognier, along with a touch of Chardonnay, both from Domaine du Mazel in Valvigne`res. The two were added to the pressoir as grapes were harvested over the course of ten days, before being moved to old barriques for a year of rest.
Oxidative gewürztraminer from the Bannwarth family’s vineyards in Obermorschwihr, Alsace. The grapes were pressed directly and left to ferment outside in cuve for four months, before five years of ageing in old barriques.
Anders Frederik Steen Lovers` Dance On Caring Feet
Direct press Petillant from Chardonnay, Viognier and Grenache Noir from Domaine du Mazel in Valvigne`res, aged for one year sur lie before disgorgement.
0.5ha of stunning 30yo vines planted at 580m altitude, one of the highest and coolest parcels in the cru of St-Jean-de-la-Porte. Aged in foudre a wine would need least a year to begin opening out. It’s denser and richer than La Pente.
A hommage to the greatness of the Mouvedre grape. One of the greatest wines in Bandol, the grapes are never destemmed, so these wines can age breathtakingly well and never offer anything less then a beaker of the warm south, with an abundance of character.
70yo maccabeu planted on hillsides of gneiss and orthogneiss (north and east facing which helps preserve freshness). The wine is aged with no bâtonnage in a new 500ltr barrel made by famous Austrian tonnelier Stockinger and several 4yo barriques
80 year old Carignon Gris - Pressed directly, indigenous yeast fermentation. Aged for 15 to 20 months in older Burgundian barrels. Malolactic fermentation depending on the vintage. Very Burgundian in style. Beautiful.
`Slightly more ripe, voluptuous and textured than the more Syrah-dominated l’Esquerda, the translucent purple-colored 2013 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France Occultum Lapidem comes from the schist soils around the village of Latour de France. A blend of 50% Syrah, 40% Grenache and 10% Carignan that was harvest on September 15 and aged all in concrete tanks, it’s a fabulous wine that offers elegant notes of red and black raspberries, roasted herbs, pepper, melted licorice and asphalt. These flow to a medium to full-bodied 2013 that has a full, layered mid-palate, beautiful fruit, fine tannin and a classically focused, dry finish. It continues to freshen up in the glass, has integrated acidity and lots of class. Buy this brilliant wine by the case and drink it over the coming decade.` 94 Points Jeb Dunnock
Based in Costiere de Nimes, The wines of Chateau d`Or et de Gueules, bear some resemblance to those of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This small production wine,“La Bolida” (or small cuvee) takes its name from a century-old Mourvèdre vines that yield a tiny 10 hectoliters per hectare.
Based in Costiere de Nimes, The wines of Chateau d`Or et de Gueules, bear some resemblance to those of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This small production wine,“La Bolida” (or small cuvee) takes its name from a century-old Mourvèdre vines that yield a tiny 10 hectoliters per hectare.
La Montagnes Rousses Rouge Domaine des Côtes Rousses
20 year Mondeuse cru of St-Jean-de-la-Porte. 100% whole bunches, very gentle extraction, ageing in terracotta and demi-muids to give the purest expression of the grape low alcohol, 10 mg/l total SO2.11%
20 different parcels on steep slopes with limestone scree. Aged in 50% in foudres as well as sandstone amphoras and old barrels, the wine has a very pale colour and a dynamic mouthfeel. With low alcohol to boot it is the perfect wine to slate your thirst on a warm summer’s day. Nicolas comments it’s easy to work with low sulphur when the pH is as low as 3 – total SO2 of 18mg/l, only added before bottling.
Gamay d`Auvergne, Gamay Beaujolais From iron-oxide rich red clay and some limestone, the grapes are macerated in wholebunches for about 2 weeks in stainless steel. It is then aged in old 228lt and 300lt barrels for 9 months.
Engelvin is now famed for his refined Grenache. He uses no mechanical intervention in the process, and a herd of sheep help keep the soil healthy. If the vines ever need treatment, only essential oils and herbal remedies are used. 60 year old Grenache noir grapes are hand-harvested. Wine is aged for 12 to 18 months in barrels. 15mg/L of sulphite is added before bottling. Alcohol: 13%
100% Grenache Noir, from old vines grown on a unique terroir of limestone gravels and sand. Cultivated biodynamically. Manual harvest and natural vinification: carbonic maceration for 10 days, 6 months of maturation in vats, and all without sulphur. Bottled without fining or filtration, tiny suphur at bottling.
Engelvin is now famed for his refined Grenache. He uses no mechanical intervention in the process, and a herd of sheep help keep the soil healthy. If the vines ever need treatment, only essential oils and herbal remedies are used. 60 year old Grenache noir grapes are hand-harvested. Wine is aged for 12 to 18 months in barrels. 15mg/L of sulphite is added before bottling. Alcohol: 13%
100% Grenache Noir, from old vines grown on a unique terroir of limestone gravels and sand. Cultivated biodynamically. Manual harvest and natural vinification: carbonic maceration for 10 days, 6 months of maturation in vats, and all without sulphur. Bottled without fining or filtration, tiny suphur at bottling.
Vin de France Rouge Terres Blanches VV Clos des Grillons
A blended cuvée of 85% Grenache Noir and 15% Carignan, from century-old vines farmed biodynamically. Vinifications are separated by grape variety: for the Carignan, fermentation of whole bunches for one week; for the Grenache, long maceration of the destemmed grapes, and all this without sulphur. Maturation for 10 months in barrels that have seen several wines. Unfined, unfiltered,
The importer of Rayas in the US, only carries only two other CNDPs - Santa Duc and Jerome Gradassi`s. Lofty company, but testatment to what Jerome has done with his Grandfathers own vines in only a few years. The smallest producer in the town, with only 800 cases being produced in a typical year - the artisanal methods are still at play here - in the early years moving fermented juice from the ancient fermentation tanks by hand with only a rope and bucket as there was no other way to do it. He works with cooler climates: mostly the lieux-dits of Palestor, Bois Dauphin, and Cabrière, where he aims for elegance rather then pure power. These are artisanal CNDPs in the old school and are a brilliant value.
The importer of Rayas in the US, only carries only two other CNDPs - Santa Duc and Jerome Gradassi`s. Lofty company, but testatment to what Jerome has done with his Grandfathers own vines in only a few years. The smallest producer in the town, with only 800 cases being produced in a typical year - the artisanal methods are still at play here - in the early years moving fermented juice from the ancient fermentation tanks by hand with only a rope and bucket as there was no other way to do it. He works with cooler climates: mostly the lieux-dits of Palestor, Bois Dauphin, and Cabrière, where he aims for elegance rather then pure power. These are artisanal CNDPs in the old school and are a brilliant value.
The importer of Rayas in the US, only carries only two other CNDPs - Santa Duc and Jerome Gradassi`s. Lofty company, but testatment to what Jerome has done with his Grandfathers own vines in only a few years. The smallest producer in the town, with only 800 cases being produced in a typical year - the artisanal methods are still at play here - in the early years moving fermented juice from the ancient fermentation tanks by hand with only a rope and bucket as there was no other way to do it. He works with cooler climates: mostly the lieux-dits of Palestor, Bois Dauphin, and Cabrière, where he aims for elegance rather then pure power. These are artisanal CNDPs in the old school and are a brilliant value.
`The bouquet has a garrigue, herbes de Provence landscape, centres on plum fruit with a smoke-tobacco angle and a winsome floral touch. It’s going to be a classic, varied Châteuneuf nose over time, worth waiting for. The palate is enjoyable, filled with red fruits that move along well, a note of cedar, and a pocket of late tannin that brings extra graininess. This is an unhurried, unforced wine, very much in the domaine style over the years. There is glow on the aftertaste. It’s suavely fruited on the finish, presents an authentic glass. From late 2019, is in the finesse camp. 14.5°` **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
`A towering effort, the 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes soars from the glass with pristine crème de cassis, raspberry jam, black plum, scorched earth, incense, mint, exotic spice and white pepper aromas. The precision of the individual perfumes has a laser-like quality rarely seen in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Full-bodied and framed by ever-so-velvety tannins, it reaches a spherical dimension in the mouth. The recent adoption of 3,000-liter Austrian oak barrels beautifully contributed to the shape of this wine, giving it terrific poise and tension. (Drink between 2026-2042)` 97 Points Nicolas Greinacher
Made in the cellars of Vincent Paris - Ex Yarra Yerring Winemaker turned Burgundy Vigneron makes one of the silkiest Cornas` of the appellation. Coming from Les Cotes at the Southern end of the appellation, where other growers like Juge, Voges and Lionnet have parcels, it seems particurly well suited to the vignerons stylistic visions. Deep
`Inky ruby. Powerful, deeply perfumed aromas of black and blue fruit preserves, licorice and olive, along with a sexy floral overtone. Coats the palate with juicy blackberry, boysenberry, violet pastille and spicecake flavors, while a smoky mineral flourish adds vibrant lift. Chewy tannins shape an impressively long, mineral-accented finish that shows very good power and spicy thrust` 93 Points Josh Reynolds
`Opaque violet color. Precise, mineral-accented scents of blackberry, cassis and exotic spices are accompanied by a slowly emerging floral nuance. Sappy and energetic on the palate, displaying sharp delineation to its concentrated black/blue fruit, floral pastille, olive and allspice flavors. Finishes extremely long and spicy, with intense mineral thrust, a hint of candied violet and subtly chewy, harmonious tannins that make a late appearance.` 95 Points Vinous
`This has a very Brune style air – smoke, graphite, cordite, chocolate. A real mineral factor is high on its agenda, also a wee note of herbes de Provence. The palate expresses through refined red fruits, with smoky sidekick tannins, a touch of griottes (soaked cherries) in the fruit. The length is good. This has stylish potential, is serious. It grips tight on the finish. This is real rock force wine, a Smoking Joe here, crunchy times. There is an STGT heart to it. Its oak will absorb. 13°. Bottled Dec 2015. From late 2018. 2032-34 Apr 2016` ****(*) John Livingstone-Learmonth
`Full red; has an open, rolling nose, raspberry with iodine, damp moss, cherries, hints of rose. The palate has a saline start, Morello black cherry with fine spine, tension, has a marked straight line run to the finish, some sense of late strength, firmness which is just under the surface. The finish is compact, with quite thick juice there. It needs time to open, is well grounded. The aftertaste is smoky. “it’s very Burgundian,” J-M Stéphan. Harvested 24 Sept, pH 3.43, 12.2°. From 2022. 2038-40 **** John Livingstone-Learmonth"
`very clear red robe; the nose is shapely, aromatic, on red fruit, is pure, floral with red cherry and raspberry. There’s a kind sweetness underpinning it, a pastille effect. The palate moves with Burgundian finesse, bears red cherries, has firm sides, comes from within, has iron, is structured. It’s aromatic with a touch of suave gras near the close, gras encouraged by the Viognier. It’s intricate, grippy, unusual, delivers interest. A granite blend would have more sucrosity. The aftertaste is rocky, finely powdered. Harvested before the rain which helped the Coteaux de Tupin. From 2022-23. 2042-44` Only 600 bottles **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
One of the icons of traditional Cote Rotie, Maxime Champet continues to stick to the principles of the family, in guiding the Northern sector fruit to a long lived, well-balanced wine where a core of iron is intermingled with secondary flavours that reach quite mind-boggling levels of complexity by ten years. Luckily, prices remain affordable for the time-being.
One of the icons of traditional Cote Rotie, Maxime Champet continues to stick to the principles of the family, in guiding the Northern sector fruit to a long lived, well-balanced wine where a core of iron is intermingled with secondary flavours that reach quite mind-boggling levels of complexity by ten years. Luckily, prices remain affordable for the time-being.
`The Chambolle-Musigny of the Rhône, the 2015 IGP Vaucluse from Jerome Bressy is a totally sensational blend of 50% Grenache and the balance a mix of Mourvèdre, Carignan, Counoise, Vaccarèse, Cinsault, Syrah, and Terret Noir (we`re getting close to all the varieties). Aged in a mix of concrete tanks, foudre, demi-muids, and barrels, bottled unfined and unfiltered, this naked beauty has just about everything you could want from a bottle of wine. Notes of rose petals, kirsch, blackberries, garrigue, and spice all emerge from this pure, elegant and gorgeous red that offers full-bodied richness, no hard edges and a killer finish. It got more than a few Wows in my notes and is an ethereally textured southern Rhône that needs to be tasted to be believed. Anticipated maturity: 2017 - 2030` 97 points, Jeb Dunnuck
The ‘Confidential Wine Culture’ of St-Joseph has long clutched Domaine de Gouye tight to its chest, as it did his neighbour and long-time friend Raymond Trollat. The Gouye family have most of their vines in the lieux-dit of Gouye, high up on the hills over St-Jean de Muzols. Separated by a ravine from Aubert and Pichonnier, Trollat’s old plots. Philippe has 3 hectares here mostly planted between 1955 and 1975. Due to its high altitude, the wines manage to retain freshness even in warm years. It is a phenomenal terroir, worked with absolute conviction in the old methods by Philippe Desbos. As well as Trollat, he had much in common with Elizabeth Fogier, a female vigneron of St-Jean de Muzols who defended the old style in the 1980s and 1990s, living an unpretentious and steady farmers existence like Philippe and his family do now. Hens cluck at your feet, a horse to plough. Not much changes here.
The ‘Confidential Wine Culture’ of St-Joseph has long clutched Domaine de Gouye tight to its chest, as it did his neighbour and long-time friend Raymond Trollat. The Gouye family have most of their vines in the lieux-dit of Gouye, high up on the hills over St-Jean de Muzols. Separated by a ravine from Aubert and Pichonnier, Trollat’s old plots. Philippe has 3 hectares here mostly planted between 1955 and 1975. Due to its high altitude, the wines manage to retain freshness even in warm years. It is a phenomenal terroir, worked with absolute conviction in the old methods by Philippe Desbos. As well as Trollat, he had much in common with Elizabeth Fogier, a female vigneron of St-Jean de Muzols who defended the old style in the 1980s and 1990s, living an unpretentious and steady farmers existence like Philippe and his family do now. Hens cluck at your feet, a horse to plough. Not much changes here.
`Time is catching up with what was a **** wine in an underestimated year: pretty, mature red colour. Dry, taut bouquet, smells of furniture varnish, is earthy, too. Gentle, spiced plum opening to palate. Is grainy, there is a prune, snappy mineral effect. Still OK - but on the fade. Mineral, cough mixture falvour towards the finish.` **(*) John Livingstone-Learmonth
The ‘Confidential Wine Culture’ of St-Joseph has long clutched Domaine de Gouye tight to its chest, as it did his neighbour and long-time friend Raymond Trollat. The Gouye family have most of their vines in the lieux-dit of Gouye, high up on the hills over St-Jean de Muzols. Separated by a ravine from Aubert and Pichonnier, Trollat’s old plots. Philippe has 3 hectares here mostly planted between 1955 and 1975. Due to its high altitude, the wines manage to retain freshness even in warm years. It is a phenomenal terroir, worked with absolute conviction in the old methods by Philippe Desbos. As well as Trollat, he had much in common with Elizabeth Fogier, a female vigneron of St-Jean de Muzols who defended the old style in the 1980s and 1990s, living an unpretentious and steady farmers existence like Philippe and his family do now. Hens cluck at your feet, a horse to plough. Not much changes here.
Syrah (2004, massale) from 0.5 hectare on mica-schist hillside soils at Vion, whole bunch 500-litre amphore vinification, then topped up & left 6 months, then pressed, then another 6 months in amphore, unfined, unfiltered, not made every year, plot selection wine, up to 2,000 b
The result of a three-week carbonic maceration of three red grape varieties, Cab Franc and Sauv and Merlot. Aged in stainless steel vats. The wine is lighter; fruity and more supple then the Anciens cuvee.
Vin de France Syrah Decanonise Domaine de L`Iserand
50 year old Syrah from St Jo vineyards that lost their classification because the vineyards were deemed too high. Jef too these on from the Cave de Tain and set about restoring them to organic viti - roughly 150 cases made. Vinification in concrete then a mix of amphore and oak.
The ‘Confidential Wine Culture’ of St-Joseph has long clutched Domaine de Gouye tight to its chest, as it did his neighbour and long-time friend Raymond Trollat. The Gouye family have most of their vines in the lieux-dit of Gouye, high up on the hills over St-Jean de Muzols. Separated by a ravine from Aubert and Pichonnier, Trollat’s old plots. Philippe has 3 hectares here mostly planted between 1955 and 1975. Due to its high altitude, the wines manage to retain freshness even in warm years. It is a phenomenal terroir, worked with absolute conviction in the old methods by Philippe Desbos. As well as Trollat, he had much in common with Elizabeth Fogier, a female vigneron of St-Jean de Muzols who defended the old style in the 1980s and 1990s, living an unpretentious and steady farmers existence like Philippe and his family do now. Hens cluck at your feet, a horse to plough. Not much changes here.
The importer of Rayas in the US, only carries only two other CNDPs - Santa Duc and Jerome Gradassi`s. Lofty company, but testatment to what Jerome has done with his Grandfathers own vines in only a few years. The smallest producer in the town, with only 800 cases being produced in a typical year - the artisanal methods are still at play here - in the early years moving fermented juice from the ancient fermentation tanks by hand with only a rope and bucket as there was no other way to do it. He works with cooler climates: mostly the lieux-dits of Palestor, Bois Dauphin, and Cabrière, where he aims for elegance rather then pure power. These are artisanal CNDPs in the old school and are a brilliant value.
`Yellow robe. Ripe peach, guava jelly air with smokiness. The palate has tannic touches, gives white fruits, notably apricot, the classic pears of Viognier. The length is good, with a lot of grip on the finish. The finale is clear, backed by a smoky, mineral exit. Very beau. Extremely young for 24 years. 13°. 2022-24` John Livingstone-Learmonth
`The 2011 Ermitage Cuvee de l`Oree comes from a lieu-dit known as Les Murets planted with 80- to 90-year-old Marsanne vines. The bouquet offers up scents of Asian spices, lychee nuts, white currant liqueur and peach and apricot marmalade. This stunning, honeyed, flamboyant white is perfection in a glass. Drink it over the next half century. Drink 2013-2027`, 100 Points, Robert Parker.
` Pale gold. Intense, sharply delineated aromas of fresh nectarine, pear nectar, orange, honey and pungent flowers, along with a smoky mineral overtone. Deeply pitched citrus and orchard fruit, peach liqueur and honeysuckle flavors stain the palate and become deeper with air, picking up a hint of toasted almonds and showing powerful back-end cut. The mineral and honey notes repeat emphatically on a strikingly long, focused finish that leaves juicy pear and floral notes behind. (Drink between 2024-2034)` 95 Points Josh Reynolds.
`Brilliant straw-gold. Powerful, mineral-accented orchard and pit fruit aromas are complemented by lemon curd, iodine and pungent floral accents. Intense, palate-staining pear nectar and Meyer lemon flavors show superb concentration. Definition and a sexy floral nuance build through the mid-palate. Opens up steadily on an extremely long, floral-tinged finish that emphatically echoes the pit fruit and mineral notes. (Drink between 2024-2034)` 96 Points, Josh Reynolds.
`Moving to the three single vineyard Hermitage Blancs, these are all perfect wines yet offer distinct characters. The 2019 Ermitage De L’Orée comes from more limestone soils in the Les Murets lieu-dit, on the eastern side of the appellation and was brought up in 15% new demi-muids. It reveals a vivid gold hue to go with gorgeous honeyed peach, white currants, quince, crushed stone, and white flower-like aromas and flavors. This full-bodied white has terrific concentration, a rich, layered mouthfeel, beautiful acidity, and a finish that just won`t quit. Offering more fat and opulence than the L`Ermite and more minerality than the Le Meal, this pinnacle Hermitage Blanc needs a year or three of bottle age, then should drink nicely for 5-7 years, at which point it`s best forgotten in the cellar for another decade. It should last for 20-30 years.` 100 Points, Jeb Dunnock.
50% Roussanne, 30% Marsanne, 20% Viognier from Rozay at Condrieu (Viognier, 0.65 ha), Vérin (Viognier, 0.1 ha), Ampuis (Roussanne, 0.3 ha), & 0.5 ha each of Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne (2018-20) on ex glacier soils at Péage de Roussillon (left bank, Isère, 38), direct press, 12 hrs at <15°C, then steel vat fermented at 16°C, raised 7-8 months, malo completed, first wine 2020, 7,000 b - John Livingstone-Learmonth
A cuvee developed with Eric Pfifferling to use as make thes wines with as little sulphur as possible. Always quite heady even in cooler vinatge and carafe for a hour 14.5%
A cuvee developed with Eric Pfifferling to use as make thes wines with as little sulphur as possible. Always quite heady even in cooler vinatge and carafe for a hour 14.5%
The result of a three-week carbonic maceration of three red grape varieties, Cab Franc and Sauv and Merlot. Aged in stainless steel vats. The wine is lighter; fruity and more supple then the Anciens cuvee.
Grenache from twenty year old vines planted over limestone in El Pinell de Brai. The grapes were destemmed and spent just three days on the skins before a brief rest in terracotta amphorae.
Garnacha Tinta from Joan Ramon Escoda and Cariñena from the Terme de Laureano vineyard, fermented separately before being assembled in a single terracotta amphora
Laureano Serres farms six hectares of vineyards in Terra Alta, near Priorat - spread over parcels in El Pinell at around 170 metres of altitude and higher up where they reach some 500 metres above sea level. This height, and his taste, tends to lend the wines real freshness and vibrancy.
Laureano Serres farms six hectares of vineyards in Terra Alta, near Priorat - spread over parcels in El Pinell at around 170 metres of altitude and higher up where they reach some 500 metres above sea level. This height, and his taste, tends to lend the wines real freshness and vibrancy.
