Bruno Schueller is the the most important voice for natural wine in Alsace. Pretty much ever since taking over the family domaine at 17 he was spare with sulphites, before hardening his position as he aged. His wines are wild, his influence far ranging, and at their best, they represent the absolute peak of what is possible in Alsace, but its a wild ride to get there with sometimes puzzling flavours and ageing profiles along the way.
Bruno Schueller is the the most important voice for natural wine in Alsace. Pretty much ever since taking over the family domaine at 17 he was spare with sulphites, before hardening his position as he aged. His wines are wild, his influence far ranging, and at their best, they represent the absolute peak of what is possible in Alsace, but its a wild ride to get there with sometimes puzzling flavours and ageing profiles along the way.
Bruno Schueller is the the most important voice for natural wine in Alsace. Pretty much ever since taking over the family domaine at 17 he was spare with sulphites, before hardening his position as he aged. His wines are wild, his influence far ranging, and at their best, they represent the absolute peak of what is possible in Alsace, but its a wild ride to get there with sometimes puzzling flavours and ageing profiles along the way.
Bruno Schueller is the the most important voice for natural wine in Alsace. Pretty much ever since taking over the family domaine at 17 he was spare with sulphites, before hardening his position as he aged. His wines are wild, his influence far ranging, and at their best, they represent the absolute peak of what is possible in Alsace, but its a wild ride to get there with sometimes puzzling flavours and ageing profiles along the way.
Bruno Schueller is the the most important voice for natural wine in Alsace. Pretty much ever since taking over the family domaine at 17 he was spare with sulphites, before hardening his position as he aged. His wines are wild, his influence far ranging, and at their best, they represent the absolute peak of what is possible in Alsace, but its a wild ride to get there with sometimes puzzling flavours and ageing profiles along the way.
Due to painfully low yields his plants produced in 2021, Thierry decided to create a one-off blend of old vines Pineau d’Aunis (130 year old!) from the Sarthe that would usually go into La Centenaire du Vauperroux, and Gamay (70-100 year old) from Touraine that would usually make up Les Maluseaux.
Maxime Barrot, known as Jean-Max ia part of a wave of new talent in Beaujolais. After working with Antonie Luyt in Chile and Yvon Metras in Morgon - he started his own operation in 2019, now up to 3.4 hecrates. Initially working out tof the cellar of friend Eric Texier, now in the south of Beaujolais, his vision is for wines with juicy fruit, drinkability and perfect balance.
A strong French following for Bouland is perhaps one reason why you don`t see his wines as often as you should, but they are worth seeking down as they are about as good as anything produced in the region and are underpriced for their quality for the time being. In the words of La Revue du Vin These wines have an intensity that can only come from old vines that are impeccably cultivated… We do not hesitate to say that you will find here the best value for money in red wine [in this guide].”"
Gamay from a hundred year old plot, planted over granite some four hundred metres above sea level on the steep slopes of Chiroubles. Fermented as whole bunches for a fortnight, the wine spent nine months resting in concrete eggs.
A strong French following for Bouland is perhaps one reason why you don`t see his wines as often as you should, but they are worth seeking down as they are about as good as anything produced in the region and are underpriced for their quality for the time being. In the words of La Revue du Vin These wines have an intensity that can only come from old vines that are impeccably cultivated… We do not hesitate to say that you will find here the best value for money in red wine [in this guide].”"
`The 2015 Fleurie Clepsydre comes from high density planting (9,000 vines per hectare) on granite soils cropped at 30 hectoliters per hectare, and the fruit here is 100% destemmed followed by ten months in oak casks. It has a meaty nose with garrigue scents infusing the dark berry fruit. The palate is well balanced with supple ripe tannin and crisp acidity, with a well defined, fresh finish that leaves a residue of white pepper on the aftertaste. There is an uncommon sense of mystery about this Fleurie…and I like that` 90 Points Neal Martin
Anne Sophie Dubois makes wines that have one foot in the Burgundian tradition, and the other in something quintessentially Beaujolaisian (if that`s a word). Longer elevage on the Alchimiste cuvee make it one for the cellar, where the higher altitude of her Fleurie vines really delivers freshness and super super complexity.
Anne Sophie Dubois makes wines that have one foot in the Burgundian tradition, and the other in something quintessentially Beaujolaisian (if that`s a word). Longer elevage on the Alchimiste cuvee make it one for the cellar, where the higher altitude of her Fleurie vines really delivers freshness and super super complexity.
`An aromatic of energy – mineral, almost steely red fruit – freshness too. Good depth and supple concentration but with a lovely finishing freshness – long, haunting flavours in the finish but subtle – this is no broad or powerful finish – just a very elegant wine.`Bill Nanson
A strong French following for Bouland is perhaps one reason why you don`t see his wines as often as you should, but they are worth seeking down as they are about as good as anything produced in the region and are underpriced for their quality for the time being. In the words of La Revue du Vin These wines have an intensity that can only come from old vines that are impeccably cultivated… We do not hesitate to say that you will find here the best value for money in red wine [in this guide].”"
Among the elite of Beaujolais, Breton`s 3000 case production is spread quite thinly, he has a big following in the restaurant sector in France, owing, largely due to the way in which poise, elegance and ageability and combined with sheer, joyous drinkability.
Among the elite of Beaujolais, Breton`s 3000 case production is spread quite thinly, he has a big following in the restaurant sector in France, owing, largely I think to the way in which poise, elegance and ageability and combined with sheer, joyous drinkability.
Cuvée was born from the uncommonly bad conditions in 2021. Another original blend, this time of old vines Gamay planted over granite and quartz on the steep slopes of Chiroubles and Chénas.
Among the elite of Beaujolais, Breton`s 3000 case production is spread quite thinly, he has a big following in the restaurant sector in France, owing, largely I think to the way in which poise, elegance and ageability and combined with sheer, joyous drinkability.
Maxime Barrot, known as Jean-Max ia part of a wave of new talent in Beaujolais. After working with Antonie Luyt in Chile and Yvon Metras in Morgon - he started his own operation in 2019, now up to 3.4 hecrates. Initially working out tof the cellar of friend Eric Texier, now in the south of Beaujolais, his vision is for wines with juicy fruit, drinkability and perfect balance.
`Particularly opulent yet appetising nose although the tannins are currently rather jagged. A good testament to the vintage however from this relatively modest property.` 17 Points Jancis Robinson
`Have gone through a full case over the last two years and this might have been my last bottle. Beautiful classic left bank Bdx with plenty of horse stable and sous bois. Very aromatic. Tannins largely resolved but unlike the 89 Fieuzal, the wine is still fresh and will stay at this level for another 5 years for sure. Great value if you can find this` 30.11.2025 Cellertracker - 91 Points.
1988 is a vintage of good, but hardly remarkable ripeness, and in the context of all the other stellar vintages in this decade in Bordeaux, it stands out a bit stylistically. However, at least with the Pichon-Lalande, the 1988 is hardly a weak link and the wine is outstanding in its very classical styling and proportions. The bouquet offers up a lovely, cool fruit blend of cassis, dark berries, menthol, tobacco leaf, gravel, cigar smoke and a judicious foundation of toasty new oak. On the palate the wine is fullish, pure and impeccably balanced, with a good solid core, melting tannins and fine focus and grip on the long, complex and very classy finish. This does not have the exotic topnotes of a sunnier vintage, but it has a lovely base of Pichon’s inimitable terroir and has no cause to apologize for anything! Fine, fine juice cut from an utterly classical cloth and a dramatically underrated vintage of Pichon-Lalande` 92 Points John Gilman
`Tasted blind. Rich, exotic, spicy nose – almost Mouton-like! Masses packed in here: fruit, tannin and character. Set for a very long life. Long and with masses of ingredients bursting out at the seams. Though it will need lots of time. 14.5% Drink 2030 – 2055` 18.5 Points Jancis Robinson
`Tasted blind at the Southwold Bordeaux tasting. The 2012 Vieux Château Certan has a potent, smoke, cooked meat, Cabernet Franc-scented bouquet that is beautifully defined—quintessentially Pomerol. You want typicité? Come right here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite gentle as it sashays across the mouth. The acidity is very well judged and leads to an elegant tobacco tinged finish. Alexandre and Guillaume Thienpont have produced one of the finest wines of the Right Bank in 2012, one that is up there with the greats. Tasted January 2016.` 95 Points Neal Martin
`Deep garnet-brick in color, the 2014 Vieux Chateau Certan is a little shy to start, offering up faint notes of candied violets and licorice opening out to a core of preserved plums and Christmas cake plus a waft of sandalwood. The full-bodied palate delivers a refreshing backbone and fine-grained tannins to support the taut, powerful black fruits, finishing long and earthy.` 97 Points Lisa Perotti-Brown
`The 2011 Guiraud offers attractive scents of dried honey, pressed white flowers and honeysuckle. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a concentrated opening, fine acidity, spicier than its peers with a botrytis-laden finish that has just the right amount of bite. Excellent. Tasted blind at the annual 10-Year-On tasting.` 93 Points Neal Martin
0.43 hectare plot cultivated by young Julien Petitjean. A questing vigneron who spent ten years looking for land with character that he could farm in an organic spirit.
The 2022 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, blended with 25% whole bunches, has quite a perfumed and aromatic bouquet: white flowers and potpourri infusing the black cherry and red plummy fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. It offers much more composure than the Latricières, with a poised, persistent finish. Excellent.` 93 Points Neal Martin
Bourgogne Pinot Noir De Laube A Laube Les Fauvettes (Maryse Chatelin)
`Still in barrel, the 2017 Chablis Clos Béru Monopole is a stunning wine. Rich and textured, with tons of phenolic intensity, the 2017 possesses remarkable depth from the very first taste. More than anything else, the Clos Béru is a Chablis to admire for its textural intensity and utterly captivating beauty. It is one of the most distinctive whites I have tasted in a number of years.` 93-95 Points, Antonio Galloni
`The 2015 Chambertin from Domaine Trapet is utterly brilliant, as it is a big, massive and utterly poised and refined example of the vintage. The heroically proportioned wine is still the essence of Chambertin, as it delivers a brilliant bouquet of black plums, red and black cherries, raw cocoa, grilled meats, a very complex base of soil tones, a touch of graphite and a refined framing of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and simply bottomless at the core, with a great synthesis of soil signature and sappy, pure fruit. The finish is endless, with fine-grained tannins, lovely acids and stunning complexity. This is one of the wines of the vintage in 2015, without a doubt! 2030-2100` 98 Points John Gilman
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Aux Beaux Bruns Ghislaine Barthod
`The 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Aux Beaux Bruns 1er Cru has a superb bouquet of red and black fruit, bay leaf, clove, and an underlying __mineralité that comes through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit and fine grip. It is complex and a little more savory in style, fanning out wonderfully on the finish. Excellent.` 94-96 Points Neal Martin
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Chatelots Ghislaine Barthod
`The 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Les Chatelots 1er Cru is quite closed on the nose: light red fruit, a little sous-bois and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It’s fresh and saline, though the finish doesn`t kick on with the same gusto as other cuvées. I will be prudent for now, but it may improve in bottle.` 90 Points Neal Martin
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Gruenchers Ghislaine Barthod
`Aromas of Griotte cherries, wild berries, peonies and orange rind mingle with hints of grilled squab, introducing Barthod`s 2018 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Gruenchers, a medium to full-bodied, precise wine that`s layered and youthfully introverted, with an ample chassis of rich, powdery tannin and a lively spine of acidity. Barthod produced three barrels this year.` 92-94 Points William Kelley
`The 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a lovely bouquet that unfurls from the glass to reveal raspberry, hints of dark chocolate, cedar and undergrowth; there is a touch of mintiness here. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and beautifully balanced with vivid red berry fruit, plus a liberal sprinkling of white pepper on the finish. Excellent. (Drink between 2023-2042)` 96 Points Neal Martin.
`... for my money, these are among the small handful of wines that realize the true potential of the hill of Corton—to say nothing of the domaine`s reference-point wines from Savigny-lès-Beaune and Pernand-Vergelesses.` William Kelley"
`From four parcels comprising 1.5-hectares, the 2021 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru has a harmonious bouquet with dark plum, licorice and hints of menthol. This blossoms in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins framing the dusky, black fruit laced with white pepper, thyme and bay leaf. Very persistent, this is an excellent Corton-Bressandes. ` 93-95 Points Neal Martin
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Cazetiers Domaine Faiveley
`The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru is very perfumed on the nose, offering confit-like red berry fruit, blood orange and raspberry jam. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine delineation, nice poise and a grippy finish. There’s nice sapidity here, and the constituent parts are all in pace – they just need time to knit together. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting. Drinking Date: 2025 - 2045`92 Points Neal Martin
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Cazetiers Domaine Faiveley
`The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers is brilliant, unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, plums, dark chocolate, spices and vanilla pod. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it`s elegantly muscular, with a deep and multidimensional core and a long, expansive finish. It`s worth a special effort to seek out.` 94 Points William Kelley
Much paler colour – thats the house clour! Great nose, complex, leafy, fresh – I would think at least 10 years older but compelling. Mouthfilling, suoer shale and frshness of flavour. Long, gorgeous, complex finish. Bravo!
After a few years under the mythical eye of Becky Wasserman, Alex Gambal set out to create a small negoce firm. Originally buying juice, then almost exclusively grapes at the end of the decade, he built up a strong reputation for quality and value. Aided, no doubt by some of the relationships he established with Becky and his easy-going natural charm. When he sold the concern to the Boisset`s he retained a cellar of small quantities of his past vintages
This wine comes from a 0.55ha holding of 50yo vines planted in a lieu-dit called Les Chataigniers at 310m altitude above the village of Saint Aubin – the soil here is of a medium depth and easy to plough. Low yield averaging 40hh, whole-bunch fermentation and free run juice only (press juice discarded). Aged in old 228ltr barrels for 15 months, pinch of sulphur added at bottling.
`The wood treatment is a bit more prominent on the spicy red and dark berry aromas that flash plenty of earth and sauvage nuances. There is a bit more verve to the big-bodied, intense and muscular flavors that exude evident minerality on the balanced, palate coating and impressively long finale. Here too patience will be beneficial.` 93 Points Allen Meadows
`Offering up aromas of dark cherries, berries, spices and loamy soil, the 2020 Monthelie Les Duresses is medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with terrific depth and energy. It`s one of the finest renditions of this cuvee that I can remember tasting chez Lafon.` 88-91 William Kelley
Francois Feuillet is a Burgundy loving magnate who succesfully brought most of the remains of the legendary Raymond Trollat estate. These vines he intrusts to David Duband, who has become stylistically much more inclined towards a more traditional style of vinification, a la Dujac or DRC. Touted as a `Rising Star` in a recent issue of Noble Rot. This is an estate with a great future and for the moment, very reasonable prices.
` Full ruby. Spicy aromas of blackberry, violet, bitter chocolate, Oriental spices and mint. Dense and sweet, with ripe but bright black fruit flavors. Finishes with sweet tannins and very good persistence.` 86-89 Points Steven Tanzer
`The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Boudots 1er Cru has a very expressive bouquet with ebullient red and blue fruit combined with violet and crushed stone scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, nicely poised with quite a strict finish that indicates that this will need some bottle age.` 93-95 Points Neal Martin
Nuits-St-Georges 1er Clos des Forets St Georges Domaine de l`Arlot
`A little extra colour here. Bright, wide, pure red-berried. Clean, nice drive to this – cushioned with very lovely extra-fine grain to the tannin and with relatively little dryness. The finish seeps out through the cracks and lasts long on mouth-watering finish – very long.` Bill Nanson
Nuits-St-Georges 1er Clos des Porrets Henri Gouges [Pre-Arrival]
`The 1999 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos des Porrets Saint-Georges 1er Cru has a ripe and expressive bouquet, one that is lush for a Gouges, with copious pomegranate, cranberry and pressed flower scents. There is certainly fine definition here. The palate is medium-bodied with impressive detail, precise but unapologetically forward as many 1999s can be. But you just cannot resist the energy and brio of this wine and it should give another two decades of drinking pleasure. Tasted at the Gouges retrospective at La Cabotte.` 93 Points Neal Martin (2018)
`The 2020 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru was a blend of two instead of four cuvées this year due to the depleted production. It has a precocious bouquet with black cherries, raspberry, menthol and blood orange scents that gather momentum in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, taut and fresh, lightly spiced with hints of allspice and tangy quince. It displays fine composure towards the finish with impressive length. This is a superb Clos des Epeneaux, though will it surpass the 2019? I’m not sure.` 92-94 Points Neal Martin
`A little extra colour here. Bright, wide, pure red-berried. Clean, nice drive to this – cushioned with very lovely extra-fine grain to the tannin and with relatively little dryness. The finish seeps out through the cracks and lasts long on mouth-watering finish – very long.` Bill Nanson
`The les Grands Poisots is the Volnay village wine from Louis Boillot and it too is lovely this year. The deep, pure and nascently complex nose jumps from the glass in a blend of cassis, black cherries, espresso, violets and a beautiful base of chalky soil tones. On the palate the wine is deep, fullish, pure and intensely flavored, with a sappy core of black fruit, tangy acids, suave tannins and excellent focus and balance on the long and soil-driven finish. Lovely juice. (Drink between 2017-2040)` 91 Points John Gilman
After Philippe`s recent retirement, his son Tony has taken over at the domaine - the quality of the wines remains excellent, altough the new labels are not to everyone`s tastes!
From a 0.15 hectare (!) parcel on the steeper upper slope shelf directly above the 1er crus les Malconsorts and les Gaudichots, two barrels made. Vines planted in 1934/1935. A 1er cru in all but name.
From the borders, but outside the Champagne AOC, the vineyards of Molesme share much of the similar geology. Hand Harvested, natural yeats and aged for 2 years on the lees, these reflect the work of Jeanne Piollot who worked with her parents on Piollot Pere and Marie Courtin before setting out her own stall..
Charles Ballot is propelling this white-focussed estate to heights occupied by Roulot, Jobard and Ente. Exceptional value for the time being, but the market is clearly catching up on these wines. The Bourgogne Blanc is from fruit only from within Meursault and Puligny Villages. 580 cases produced.
From the cellars of the Michelin 2* Hostellerie Jerome - never moved since original purchase directly from the domaine upon release. Stored with extreme care in the restaurant’s cellars.
Chablis Clos Beru Monopole Chateau de Beru (Magnum)
`Still in barrel, the 2017 Chablis Clos Béru Monopole is a stunning wine. Rich and textured, with tons of phenolic intensity, the 2017 possesses remarkable depth from the very first taste. More than anything else, the Clos Béru is a Chablis to admire for its textural intensity and utterly captivating beauty. It is one of the most distinctive whites I have tasted in a number of years.` 93-95 Points, Antonio Galloni
Chablis Clos Beru Monopole Chateau de Beru (Magnum)
`Still in barrel, the 2017 Chablis Clos Béru Monopole is a stunning wine. Rich and textured, with tons of phenolic intensity, the 2017 possesses remarkable depth from the very first taste. More than anything else, the Clos Béru is a Chablis to admire for its textural intensity and utterly captivating beauty. It is one of the most distinctive whites I have tasted in a number of years.` 93-95 Points, Antonio Galloni
From the cellars of the Michelin 2* Hostellerie Jerome - never moved since original purchase directly from the domaine upon release. Stored with extreme care in the restaurant’s cellars.
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots William Fèvre
`Note: from a 2.2 ha parcel at the bottom section of the vineyard; even so, the vineyard is so steep here that it must be worked entirely by hand as tractors would be dangerous to use. A cool and highly restrained nose reluctantly offers up its array of citrus, tidal pool, quinine and oyster shell. The exceptionally rich, even opulent, medium-weight plus flavors also brim with sappy dry extract on the mineral-driven, powerful and remarkably long finish. This is perhaps slightly less elegant than it typically is, but it is seriously good all the same. Buy it.` 95 Points Allen Meadows
`More open and airy – if not the same focus as the previous. Wide, crystalline – more mouth-filling. Here the fluidity of the best, mouthwatering, growing almost juicy – a cascade of flavour energy and mouth-watering moreishness that the Preuses isn’t showing today. Great wine – no overt oak either.` Bill Nanson
`More lemon than lime, a little touch of coconut, the wine has the intensity to handle it, amazing punch at the back. Superb concentration here. Vauprin once again shows the absolute magic of this site in the hands of the Lavantureux team. 91-94 points` Jasper Morris MW
`Vauprin is a special selection on the hill of Vauprin, situated close to Lignorelles. Vines range from 20-80 years old and the parcel is 1.8ha in size. This AP Chablis is notable for the confident way in which oak is used (up to 50%, ranging from new to five-year-old). Lovely density on the palate allied to purity of fruit. Here, the oak really does add a lot of complexity but the Chablis character is still evident underneath. A very fine Chablis` 93 Points Alex Hunt
`The 2022 Chablis Vauprin has another impressive nose: taut and delineated. The mineralité of a Premier Cru with a clever reduction suggests some astute winemaking. The palate is nicely balanced, with a citrus-fresh entry, lively and animated, and a bright and vibrant finish. This is irresistible. Chapeau!` 92 Points Neal Martin
`A blend of three vineyards on the Puligny side of the appellation, the 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes has a slightly reductive bouquet that makes it difficult to read at the moment. The palate is well balanced with a tangy orange rind-tinged opening and lovely weight in the mouth, as lilting clementine and apricot notes mix with citrus peel toward the harmonious finish. This will be delicious` 90-92 Points Neal Martin
From the borders, but outside the Champagne AOC, the vineyards of Molesme share much of the similar geology. Hand Harvested, natural yeats and aged for 2 years on the lees, these reflect the work of Jeanne Piollot who worked with her parents on Piollot Pere and Marie Courtin before setting out her own stall..
Macon-Cruzille Aragonite White Clos Des Vignes Du Maynes (Magnum)
`Still in barrel, the 2017 Chablis Clos Béru Monopole is a stunning wine. Rich and textured, with tons of phenolic intensity, the 2017 possesses remarkable depth from the very first taste. More than anything else, the Clos Béru is a Chablis to admire for its textural intensity and utterly captivating beauty. It is one of the most distinctive whites I have tasted in a number of years.` 93-95 Points, Antonio Galloni
Macon-Cruzille Les Chassagnes Clos Des Vignes Du Maynes (Magnum)
`Still in barrel, the 2017 Chablis Clos Béru Monopole is a stunning wine. Rich and textured, with tons of phenolic intensity, the 2017 possesses remarkable depth from the very first taste. More than anything else, the Clos Béru is a Chablis to admire for its textural intensity and utterly captivating beauty. It is one of the most distinctive whites I have tasted in a number of years.` 93-95 Points, Antonio Galloni
`Mid lemon colour with a fresh green lining. Very clear, very pure, delicious white fruit. Frankly, this is gorgeous in its hillside style, rather than butter and hazelnuts. Enough flesh so it is not just about mineral tension, and very long indeed.` 92-94 Points Jasper Morris
Chardonnay from a small parcel of hundred year old vines planted over pure limestone. This was given a long, slow and gentle press before a year of élevage in old barriques.
Extensive holdings in St-Aubin allow Sylvain to make some of the best value bottlings in the village, a lesser known 1er cru, but very complex and elegant with power in reserve.
`The 2023 Saint-Aubin Village offers up a gently reductive bouquet of white flowers, pear and toasted bread. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and precise, it`s long and racy, concluding with chalky grip. Pierre-Yves Colin has delivered another successful 2023 vintage, and almost everything I tasted remained un-racked on the lees, undergoing a long élevage in pursuit of more tension and complexity. As ever, picking tends to be on the early side with a view to retaining freshness` 89-91 Points William Kelley
Sirius Petite Sirah Eaglepoint Ranch Sean Thackrey [Pre-Arrival]
When Sean Thackrey died in 2002 the world lost one of it`s most charismatic winemakers philosophers of wine and winemaking traditions. From his rustic winery in Bolinas, under the pine trees he made a series of wines that captured the attention of a huge raft of enthusiasts, including Alice Walters, who listed his wines from the very start of Chez Panisse. Unapologetically Californian, they were the blueprint for a generation of winemakers.
From a vineyard in the 1920s, there are fewer and fewer viable vines in this vineyard - now production is limited to about 74 cases. Fresh in style and capable of being enjoyed not or in twenty years.
Voted the best domestic rose by Eric Asimov in the NYT a year or so ago - the first vintage was 2006 and he was inspired by a Beaujolais vigneron who was doing the same thing. He thinks there`s a tenderness to the aromas and textural nature of the grape that amplifies the juicieness and energy of the wine. Fruit from Witters vineyard, about 1000 meters up - on red, volcanic clay. Also a bit from Barsotti which is more granitey and gives a little more structure.
`The NV Brut Réserve (base 2022) is fabulous. The influence of the larger format bottle and aging on cork is palpable. Rich and explosive, the 2022 impresses with its textural exuberance and dynamic energy. Pear, dried flowers, apricot and mint are some of the many notes that build in the glass. Bracing mineral notes explode on the intense, palate-staining finish. Readers who can find the Brut Réserve in magnum should not hesitate. The 2022 edition is especially fine.` 94 Points Antonio Galloni
Champagne Cuvee Sainte Anne Chartogne-Taillet [Pre-Arrival]
`The NV Brut Cuvée Ste.-Anne is one of the best Champagnes readers will find in its price range, or any price range, for that matter. Bright and beautifully focused, the Ste.-Anne has so much to offer. The purity of the flavors is just remarkable. If anything, it needs more time on the cork to soften, as it is quite reticent at this stage. This release is based on 2017, with reserve wines from 2016 and 2015. The blend is 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Meunier, with the Chardonnay very much in evidence at this stage. Dosage is 5.15 grams/liter. Disgorged: February, 2020.` 92 Points Antonio Galloni
Cumieres 1er Brut Nature Rose George Laval (Deg. 2022)
`The NV Brut Cuvée Ste.-Anne is one of the best Champagnes readers will find in its price range, or any price range, for that matter. Bright and beautifully focused, the Ste.-Anne has so much to offer. The purity of the flavors is just remarkable. If anything, it needs more time on the cork to soften, as it is quite reticent at this stage. This release is based on 2017, with reserve wines from 2016 and 2015. The blend is 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 20% Meunier, with the Chardonnay very much in evidence at this stage. Dosage is 5.15 grams/liter. Disgorged: February, 2020.` 92 Points Antonio Galloni
Only a tad over 5000 bottles of this very individual expression of Aube fruit. From a solera system started in 2004, this comes highly recommended for those seeking new talent in Champagne.
One of the favourie Champagnes of Jerome Prevost - Alexandre Lamblot is part of a new wave of ambitious young vignerons making tiny quantites of exhilerating Champagne. _x000D_
Dissonance is 70% Meunier and 30% Chardonnay and comes from Vrigny. Usually around 700 bottles produced. `The NV (2017) Brut Nature Dissonance is a 70% Meunier/30% Chardonnay blend from vines in Vrigny. It is one of the richer, more textured wines in this range. Like all the Lamblot Champagnes, the Dissonance is quite ample in feel, with notable textural resonance that grows over time. Tangerine peel, dried flowers, pear and lightly oxidative overtones linger. Production is a miniscule 700 bottles. Disgorged: February 7, 2022.` 94 Points Antonio Galloni
Enfant de la Montagne 1er Cru Bertrand-Delespierre [Pre-Arrival]
Disgorged 05/2023 - This sublime value grower Champagne comes from a blend of vineyards in the Montagne de Reims. 45 / 35 PN to Chardonnay - it is based on the 2019 vintage. Very vinous in its compotision with low dosage.
Fosse Grely was where Bénédicte’s father first planted vines back in the 1980s. Surrounded by forest where fauna and flora thrive, the vines here are on a S/SW facing slope in a thin layer (40cm) of red clay with lots of little stones and thick compacted limestone beneath. Aged for nine months in fûts and demi-muids, and then for 20 months `sur lattes`
The traditional method adds volume but also refinement in terms of mousse and tannic detail. New yeast driven notes are introduced creating a very different cider to the Pétillant Naturel ciders.
A blend of the best keeved cider produced in a single year blended with a small amount of the best non-keeved cider. The keeved cider contributes apple sweetness and the non-keeved cider adds interest and ensures fizz. This Pétillant Naturel cider is a generous expression of classic West Country cider varieties with warmth and a tannic structure.
A blend of keeved and non-keeved cider, the proportions varying year by year, and is Pétillant Naturel. It is drier than the Reserve but still carries some keeved cider sweetness balancing the tannic structure and acidity.
`This will most likely also end up as an auction bottling, and I am very pleased that Herr Dönnhoff kept the two Brücke auslesen separate, as they are both compelling in their own right. The number 2 Brücke is even deeper and purer than the first example, as the wine offers up a brilliant mélange of pear, cherries, banana, lilacs and a mineral bath of immense proportion. On the palate the wine is simply an essence of wine, with its medium-full format both weightless and bottomless. The focus and balance here are flawless, the acids bright and tensile, and the finish and endless cascade of minerality. Rather an impressive glass of wine. (Drink between 2012-2040) 98 point` John Gilman
`Helmut Dönnhoff noted that the 2017 Brücke Goldkapsel Auslese includes about thirty percent botrytized grapes, with the rest of the bunches comprised of perfectly golden berries. The wine has a must weight of one hundred and ten Oechsle and 10.8 grams per liter of acidity this year. The youthful nose is flat out beautiful, offering up scents of pear, white cherries, a touch of passion fruit, honeycomb, fruit blossoms and a nice touch of salty minerality. On the palate the wine is fullish, pure and vibrant, with a lovely core of fruit, juicy complexity and fine focus and grip on the long, balanced and nicely salty finish. A superb bottle in the making. (Drink between 2023-2085)` 95+ points. John Gilman.
`This will most likely also end up as an auction bottling, and I am very pleased that Herr Dönnhoff kept the two Brücke auslesen separate, as they are both compelling in their own right. The number 2 Brücke is even deeper and purer than the first example, as the wine offers up a brilliant mélange of pear, cherries, banana, lilacs and a mineral bath of immense proportion. On the palate the wine is simply an essence of wine, with its medium-full format both weightless and bottomless. The focus and balance here are flawless, the acids bright and tensile, and the finish and endless cascade of minerality. Rather an impressive glass of wine. (Drink between 2012-2040) 98 point` John Gilman
`Like the Felsenberg Auslese, the Brücke regular Auslese in 2007 (there will be a Goldkapsel as well from this vineyard this year) is so gently glazed by botrytis that it offers up remarkably purity and precision on both the nose and palate. The bouquet is a glorious blend of apple, peach, honeycomb, petrol, slate and sweet grapefruit. On the palate the wine is fullish, pure and racy, with a rock solid core of fruit, with beautiful soil inflection, great length and grip, bright acids and a very, very long, focused and impressively delicate and ethereal finish. The Brücke vineyard is usually the most prone to vigorous botrytis amongst the Dönnhoff roster, and consequently this very gentle shriveled personality is quite novel and captivating. A beautiful wine in the making that should age for a very long time. (Drink between 2016-2050)` 95 points, John Gilman
`.For several decades, Helmut Dönnhoff has been of the opinion that an Auslese is a wine that needs botrytis and every example here has been a botrytized wine, at least to some degree. So, it is a great rarity to find not one, but two completely clean Auslesen in the family’s cellars this year made from golden and shriveled berries and no noble rot. The 2018 Brücke Auslese is a beautiful wine in the making, offering up a lovely aromatic constellation of pear, white cherries, honeycomb, bee pollen, apple blossoms and a lovely foundation of salty, slate minerality. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and nascently complex, with a lovely core, great focus and grip, snappy acids and a very long, dancing and still quite youthful finish. (Drink between 2030-2090)` 95 points, John Gilman.
The 2001 Oberhäuser Brücke Auslese is a beautiful wine, with a lovely glaze of botrytis adding an exotic shading to both the nose and palate. The bouquet offers up a stunning potpourri of apple pie, pineapple, nutmeg, acacia blossom, and a lovely underpinning of minerality. On the palate the wine is fullish, racy and brilliantly focused, with a tensile girdle of acidity, outstanding mid-palate depth, and a very long, transparent and snappy finish. The combination here on both the nose and palate of esthery, perfumed spice and floral tones and absolutely gorgeous fruit is simply gorgeous, and while the wine is still clearly on its way up, it is utterly irresistible. (375 ml.) (Drink between 2006-2025) 96 points. John Gilman
Served blind. Amber with golden hue. Some caramel, dark apricots, almonds, rich, intense and deep on the nose, almost massive. Fresh acidity, fruity, intense, lively, detailed, nuanced, raisins, dried apricots, syrup, honey, playful, lively and rich, super balance, long and rich, very long. 96 Points Christer Byklum"
`The 2016 Barbaresco Asili is a fine choice for drinking now and over the next few years. Crushed flowers, worn-in leather, spice, tobacco, cedar, orange peel and sweet dried cherries open in the bouquet. Aromatic and medium in body, the 2016 is open-knit, expressive and peaking. Soft, resolved tannins support the refined close.` 93 Points Antonio Galloni
`The 2008 Barbaresco Crichët Pajé is another stellar wine from Luca Roagna. Dark and mysterious, this possesses magnificent balance from start to finish. The silkiness and polish of the tannins impress more than anything else. What a stunner.` 98 Poins Antonio Galloni
Stefano Porro`s first vintage was 2021 and now he is making only about 250 cases split between Barbera and Nebbiolo. Despite the lowly price, nothing is spared at ths micro-operation. All work in the vineyards in manual, organic mature is ploughed and yields are small. Elevage occurs in 350L tonneaux for 7 months and the aim is to produce a wine of elegance and approachability.
`Showing a light ruby shine that radiates from the glass, the Bartolo Mascarello 2017 Barolo proves once again that elegance can be achieved, despite the many challenges of an extreme vintage, when worked by the right hands. In this case, the hands are those of Bartolo`s daughter, the legendary Maria Teresa Mascarello. This celebrated Barolo boasts a silky sheen and glossy character that transcends bouquet and mouthfeel. Wild cherry, lilac, iron ore and candied orange peel are revealed softly on the bouquet. The wine takes a few minutes to open before all those pretty little details come into view. Acidity is an important component of this graceful Barolo, as it ties together the fruit and heightens that sense of electricity and liveliness. This is a collectors` bottle to keep safely in your cellar.` 96 Points Monica Larner
`Multifaceted aromas of rose, iris, leather, cranberry, truffle and the barest hint of game lead the nose. The radiant palate offers creamy strawberry, ripe red cherry, orange zest, baking spice, dried herb and tobacco alongside firm but polished tannins. Fresh acidity provides balance while a mineral vein energizes the finish. With its smooth texture, it`s already tempting but hold for even more complexity. Drink 2018–2026.` Kerin O`Keefe
`Rinaldi’s 2013 Barolo Brunate is dark, sensual and super-inviting. A wine of restraint, the 2013 is endowed with terrific depth and tons of personality. At the same time, the 2013 is not an explosive wine (like the 2010), but rather a Barolo that speaks to total finesse. Dark cherry, plum, lavender, menthol, violet and hard candy inflections give the 2013 much of its exceptional beauty and resonance. The wine’s sheer inner sweetness makes it nearly impossible to put down the glass.` 97 Points Antonio Galloni
`The 2016 Barolo Bussia Cascina Dardi is a terrific wine from brothers Alessandro and Gian Natale Fantino. Wonderfully deep, layered and nuanced, the 2016 has so much going on. As always, there is something incredibly personal about these wines. The 2016 is not a perfect wine (there is some volatile acidity), but it is beguiling and compelling in every way. Menthol, spice, dried herbs and a whole range of balsamic-infused notes wrap around a core of dark fruit as this mysterious, enthralling Barolo gradually shows off its considerable charms.` 93 Points Antonio Galloni
A blend of vineyards in the style of Bartollo Mascarello comes together in this micro-cuvee. Having worked with Maria Teresa, Alan Manley works sites in Monforte, Faletto, Barolo and Serrulunga. One of the most exciting new sources in the region. Only just over 120 cases produced.
`The 2014 Barolo Monvigliero is quite refined and gracious, although it is also surprisingly dark, dense and concentrated by this wine`s standards. A shy, reticent wine, the 2014 is going to need time in bottle to flesh out, especially in the midpalate. I have seen this with other vintages, and expect that it will be the case here as well. The precision, clarity and silkiness that are so typical of Monvigliero start to emerge as the wine opens up in the glass. Readers should plan on being patient. If that is not possible, try to taste the 2014 as soon as possible, because these wines have a tendency to shut down hard post-bottling. As always, Monvigliero is fermented with 100% whole clusters. (Drink between 2022-2044)` 95 Points Antonio Galloni.
`The 2013 is a distinctly cool, savory Barolo Rupestris with dark tonalities of fruit and striking textural depth, but also a bit more reserve than is usually the case. Precision, nuance and detail are among the many signatures in this gorgeous, compelling Barolo. A closing burst of perfume adds intrigue, but the 2013 is a wine of reserve that needs time to be at its very best.` NR Antonio Galloni
`With fruit sourced from ancient vines in Gabutti (in Serralunga d`Alba), the Cappellano 2017 Barolo Otin Fiorin Piè Rupestris occupies that perfect moment in time, that magic moment, when Nebbiolo shines from the inside out. I really fell in love with this wine thanks to its weightless quality of fruit, its ethereal personality and its softly lingering aromas of licorice, redcurrant, cigar ash and blood orange. The fruit never fades, and the wine soothes the palate thanks to its tannins that are finely polished and silky. The 2017 is drinking beautifully right now.` 97 Points Monica Larner
Barolo Otto Fiorin Pie Rupestris Cappellano (Magnum)
`The 2011 Barolo Otin Fiorin Pie Rupestris-Nebioli is a gorgeous wine. Sweet, perfumed and inviting, the 2011 is going to need time to shed some baby fat. The elevated ripeness and alcohol of the year are both quite evident, and yet there is a certain raw magnetism to the 2011 that is quite appealing. I expect the 2011 will open up earlier than many recent vintages, but I would still give it time at the very least to recover from its recent bottling. As always, Cappellano prefers that scores for his wines not be published. I consider 2011 an intermediary vintage here, as it is pretty much everywhere.` NR Antonio Galloni
Barolo Otto Fiorin Pie Rupestris Cappellano (Magnum)
`The 2012 Barolo Barolo Rupestris is super-refined and nuanced. Expressive floral notes and bright, red-toned fruit lift from the glass in this very pretty, elegant Rupestris. Silky tannins add to the wine`s considerable appeal. In most vintages, Rupestris is a bigger wine, but the 2012 is especially elegant. The 2012 captures the essence of what makes Barolo such a compelling wine - above all else, power without excess weight. Stated simply, the 2012 is a total knockout` NR Antonio Galloni
Barolo Otto Fiorin Pie Rupestris Cappellano (Magnum)
`The 2013 is a distinctly cool, savory Barolo Rupestris with dark tonalities of fruit and striking textural depth, but also a bit more reserve than is usually the case. Precision, nuance and detail are among the many signatures in this gorgeous, compelling Barolo. A closing burst of perfume adds intrigue, but the 2013 is a wine of reserve that needs time to be at its very best.` NR Antonio Galloni
Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto di Serralunga d`Alba
`The 2001 vintage in Piedmont has long been a favorite of mine. Bruno Giacosa’s 2001 Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto is explosive and decadently rich from the very first taste. The 2001 is arguably the last truly classic vintage for the Rocche Red Label. To be sure, the 2004, 2005 and 2007 are all compelling, but the 2001 has more in common stylistically with vintages like 1996 and 1999. Dense, perfumed and wonderfully intense, the 2001 is phenomenally great. Wow.` 98 Points Antonio Galloni
No Riserva was made in 2014, so this took the best fruit from the Disa vines nearest the house. `Elio Sandri`s 2014 Barolo Perno Vigna Disa is gorgeous. It is also the only wine Sandri bottled in 2014, so all of the best fruit is in this bottling. Dark cherry, leather, smoke, savory herbs, licorice and dried flowers give the 2014 much of its complexity and overall nuance. Readers should expect a powerful, savory Barolo with quite a bit of both nuance and character, but less in the way of primary fruit.` 93 Points Antonio Galloni
`Ripe berry, dark spice and camphor aromas are front and center on this fragrant red along with a whiff of iris. Full-bodied and juicy, the savory, enveloping palate delivers succulent Morello cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice and hints of tobacco. Firm, velvety tannins and fresh acidity provide great structure and balance. [Kerin O’Keefe, 01/04/2020]` Kerin O`Keefe
`Kirsch, cherry and floral aromas and flavors kick off, augmented by eucalyptus, tar, tobacco and mineral notes. Tightly wound, this is more expressive than austere, with fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity driving the long finish. This should be superb in about 10 years. Best from 2023 through 2045.` 96 Points Bruce Sanderson
`The 2016 Carema Riserva is another knock-out effort from the Produttori di Carema, the local cooperative that has really been on fire these last few vintages. Open-knit and inviting, but with all the complexity that is so typical of the appellation, the 2016 is superb. Crushed flowers, mint, sweet tobacco, cedar and licorice are all woven together in a super-expressive Carema that offers tons of complexity in a relatively accessible style for a young wine from the appellation. The Riserva is a selection of the best casks in the cellar, with the wine aged for an added year in cask, so three years’ in neutral oak in total. That extra year in oak vis-à-vis the Classico does take with it some of the fruit while emphasizing more savory and mineral qualities. Power and finesse come together so well in this textbook Carema.` Score: 95 Antonio Galloni, Vinous.com
A small 3 hectare estate on the on the island of Pantelleria off the Sicilian Coast. Francesco Ferreri is one of the partners and native to the Island. After seeing his Grandfather make wines he wanted to return to the island and refind the pathways of the old hands that made wine on this extraodinary place before the youth left and big agriculture and lazy winemaking took over.
`Interestingly, the 2011 Disobedient is a bit fresher than the 2010 tasted alongside it. Of course, the 2011 is in barrel, while the 2010 has been bottled recently (and may be recovering from bottle shock), but today, the 2011 has a slight edge over the 2010. Ample, layered and voluptuous on the palate, the 2011 is simply gorgeous today. Ripe, silky tannins wrap around a core of deeply spiced notes, menthol, sage, licorice and dark fruit. The creamy, enveloping finish only adds to the wine`s considerable appeal. My impression today is that the 2011 will reward readers with a long and broad window of pure drinking pleasure. This is a fabulous showing`. 93-95 Pts Antonio Galloni
A small 3 hectare estate on the on the island of Pantelleria off the Sicilian Coast. Francesco Ferreri is one of the partners and native to the Island. After seeing his Grandfather make wines he wanted to return to the island and refind the pathways of the old hands that made wine on this extraodinary place before the youth left and big agriculture and lazy winemaking took over.
This vineyard that used to be worked by Jacques Puffenay is also exceptional, especially for focussed, laser-pure Chardonnay. The plot faces due south and sits on extremely limestone-rich soil so pale it appears white, which imparts striking minerality, chalky freshness, and longevity to the wine. Since 2016, this plot has been bottled separately.
This vineyard that used to be worked by Jacques Puffenay is also exceptional, especially for focussed, laser-pure Chardonnay. The plot faces due south and sits on extremely limestone-rich soil so pale it appears white, which imparts striking minerality, chalky freshness, and longevity to the wine. Since 2016, this plot has been bottled separately.
Emeric Folat runs the tiny Les Matheny domaine in Arbois after working with Jacques Puffenay vefore his retirement. Similar faming, with tiny sulphor additions. A name to watch!
When Catherine decided to start as a vigneron, she pitched up with Emmanuel Houillon and his mentor, Pierre Overnoy and gradually started putting together a small Domaine – She has about 3.2 hectares around Marnoz and Arbois. She exploits about 1.5 hectares of this, ploughing with a donkey and a horse.
Trousseau from vines over fifty years old planted over Jurassic marls in Les Corvées. The grapes were destemmed and spent eight months maceration in cuve with no pigeage or remontage.
Cotes du Jura La Mamette Chardonnay Les Granges Pacquenesses
From the cellars of the Michelin 2* Hostellerie Jerome - never moved since original purchase directly from the domaine upon release. Stored with extreme care in the restaurant’s cellars.
Cotes du Jura La Mamette Chardonnay Les Granges Pacquenesses
From the cellars of the Michelin 2* Hostellerie Jerome - never moved since original purchase directly from the domaine upon release. Stored with extreme care in the restaurant’s cellars.
Cotes du Jura Les Trouillots Savagnin Ouille Les Granges Paquenesses
From the cellars of the Michelin 2* Hostellerie Jerome - never moved since original purchase directly from the domaine upon release. Stored with extreme care in the restaurant’s cellars.
From the cellars of the Michelin 2* Hostellerie Jerome - never moved since original purchase directly from the domaine upon release. Stored with extreme care in the restaurant’s cellars.
Cotes du Jura Sauvageon Savagnin Ouille Domaine Pignier
From the cellars of the Michelin 2* Hostellerie Jerome - never moved since original purchase directly from the domaine upon release. Stored with extreme care in the restaurant’s cellars.
Ultra Long Maceration: 8 months to be precise- This was a bit of an experimental blend of 45% Pinot Noir and 55% Chardonnay from old vines in “Les Nouvelles”. The white and red grapes are kept in whole bunches and fermented together on the skins. Reflecting the vintage, this is light, bright and delicately perfumed.
Top tier Vin Jaune from a producer that has been making exceptional wines for at least the last ten years. The Montbourgeau style has evolved into something puristic, precise and lean.
`Sourced from a single vineyard located at the bottom of Chinon`s slope on alluvial/clay soils, the 2019 Chinon Les Grézeaux is currently a bit shy in terms of revealing its fruit flavors. It’s also a hint reductive with its smoky bacon characters, but that`s unimportant. What matters is the core of fruit and excellent focus. It`s very relaxed and fluid with mouthwatering acidity. The tannins are more serious than the front and midpalate would have suggested and betray a little grittiness. Aged 15 months in cement, this could be opened in one to two years, but the concentration and structure offer drinking over a decade.` 93 Points, Rebecca Gibb, Vinous
One of the most iconic wines in the Loire Valley, from perhaps the greatest terroir in Chinon. Capable of improving over at least twenty years. For now, still available at an unbelievably low tariff given the quality.
Oliver Cousin`s final full vintage, he has now passed everything over to his son Baptiste... 65 year old Cabernet Franc , Black loam infused with deep beds of limestone aged in a large wood tank (500 Liters) for 18 months. no sulphur. A true gardener/ vigneron/ activist / horse whisperer who has stood trial for his farming methods.
A rising star in Saumur - well emeshed into the local winemaking community with friends Antoine Sanzay, Thierry Germain and Antoine Foucault, the wines of Petit Saint-Vincent are for the time being, a real insiders game.
The now retired Bruno began converting his vineyards to organic back in 1995, convinced to stop using sulphites by Thierry Puzelat in 2005 with likeminds- Noella Morantin, Paul and Corinne Gillet, Joël Courtault. 40-year-old Cabernet Franc Grapes hand harvested. Élevage for one year in old barrels. Zero sulfites added.
A small, 1 hecrtare parcel of Chenin Blanc makes one of the best iterations in the region. Farmed organically and fermented with native yeasts, aged on its lees. Production is tiny.
`The ripeness of the 2018 vintage gives an almost Syrah/Viognier character to the Chinon La Croix Boissée, which offers sweet black fruit and a creamy apricot note. Sumptuous yet never ever opulent, it`s almost as if the wine`s just done a yoga class. Plentiful tannins give the inside of your cheeks a chalky rub, while there`s surprising freshness considering the ripeness, leading to a lengthy finish. This is a baby that will turn out to be a great adult.` 96 Points Rebecca Gibb, Vinous
Muscadet Gabbro Domaine de Bellevue Jerome Bretaudeau [Pre-Arrival]
Much like Didier Dagueneau did in the early 1990s, Jerome Bretaudeau has taken an appellation in the Loire known mostly for making tasty albeit formulaic wines and taken it to somewhere completely different. Over the course of the last five years he has demonstrated that Muscadet can take its place amongst the great names of the wine world.
Muscadet Gaia Domaine de Bellevue Jerome Bretaudeau [Pre-Arrival]
Much like Didier Dagueneau did in the early 1990s, Jerome Bretaudeau has taken an appellation in the Loire known mostly for making tasty albeit formulaic wines and taken it to somewhere completely different. Over the course of the last five years he has demonstrated that Muscadet can take its place amongst the great names of the wine world.
Tiny production as you might expect from 1 hectare of old vines yielding 20 hectare-litre / hectare. By my reckoning, that`s just under 170 cases per year. Top top red Sancerre made like top top Burgundy.
Boulay`s wines deserve much better recogniton, as they are clearly in the same bracket as those of Francois Cotat - to whom they show a lot of similarity. Incredibly ageworthy, pure and transparent transmissions of terroir.
`While the 2021 Sancerre Les Monts Damnés is a light bodied wine with a sense of roundness at first, there`s no mistaking this is a forceful, grippy style. In its youth, it remains relatively restrained with a touch of green jalapeño and herbs reflecting the cooler season, as well as an almost spicy and salty edge. A little more fleeting than expected.` 92 Points, Rebecca Gibb
Vin de France Le Grand Clos Thomas Batardiere (Magnum)
Young Vines for Batardiere but these are within the `Esprit Libre` Vineyard are on eroded shist soils, just to the east of the village of Rablay – Bottled in Magnum only!
The Clos des Cocus is Thomas’ 0.6ha plot (planted in 1968) a climat neighbouring Montbenault on the coteau of Faye d’Anjou is at the top of the hill therefore exposed to drying and cooling winds
The Clos des Cocus is Thomas’ 0.6ha plot (planted in 1968) a climat neighbouring Montbenault on the coteau of Faye d’Anjou is at the top of the hill therefore exposed to drying and cooling winds
Vin de France Nectar d`Empyrees Aussigouins Dufour (50cl)
A very hotly tipped name amongst the Angevin Cavistes - Dominique Dufour retired some time ago to his home in Rablay-Sur-Layon in Anjou and started making natural wine from an old vineyard just outside the village. His 0.7 hectares is at the top of the slope, the bottom he sublets to Mai and Kenji Hodgeson. This vineyard is very close to Les Noels that his friend Richard Leroy cultivates and there are similarities in the their approaches. One wine is produced a year - a dry chenin. In exceptionally warm years a late harvested version is added and bottled in 50cl bottles.
Vin de France Nectar d`Empyrees Aussigouins Dufour (50cl)
A very hotly tipped name amongst the Angevin Cavistes - Dominique Dufour retired some time ago to his home in Rablay-Sur-Layon in Anjou and started making natural wine from an old vineyard just outside the village. His 0.7 hectares is at the top of the slope, the bottom he sublets to Mai and Kenji Hodgeson. This vineyard is very close to Les Noels that his friend Richard Leroy cultivates and there are similarities in the their approaches. One wine is produced a year - a dry chenin. In exceptionally warm years a late harvested version is added and bottled in 50cl bottles.
`According to Vincent Foreau, 2009 marked the best harvest I ve ever experienced, lasting five weeks and concluding at the end of November. The 2009 Vouvray Moelleux Reserve is indeed a magnificent wine, wafting from the glass with complex aromas of tea, black tea, white truffle, herbs, ripe orchard fruits, baked pear and spices. Full-bodied, dense and concentrated, it is layered and impeccably balanced, with bright acidity supporting a superbly structured phenolic mid-palate. The finish is long, intricate and laced with exotic fruit nuances. This is an extraordinary expression of both vintage and terroir. 170 grams of residual sugar.` 98 Points, Yohan Castaing
` Brooding, reticent nose of cassis and kirsch; there`s nothing cooked about this one! Then massive, sweet and superrich in the mouth; explodes with exotic ripeness. Intriguing note of graphite. This coats every nook and cranny of the palate and clings and builds on the back end in a way that no other wine of this vintage can match. Huge, sexy and wonderfully lush Fonseca, built for the long haul. As impressive as the best 2000s, and, along with the Quinta do Noval Nacional, is an early candidate for port of the 2003 vintage` 97 Points Steven Tanzer
Direct press Petillant from Chardonnay, Viognier and Grenache Noir from Domaine du Mazel in Valvigne`res, aged for one year sur lie before disgorgement.
Anders Frederik Steen Lovers` Dance On Caring Feet
Direct press Petillant from Chardonnay, Viognier and Grenache Noir from Domaine du Mazel in Valvigne`res, aged for one year sur lie before disgorgement.
0.5ha of stunning 30yo vines planted at 580m altitude, one of the highest and coolest parcels in the cru of St-Jean-de-la-Porte. Aged in foudre a wine would need least a year to begin opening out. It’s denser and richer than La Pente.
A hommage to the greatness of the Mouvedre grape. One of the greatest wines in Bandol, the grapes are never destemmed, so these wines can age breathtakingly well and never offer anything less then a beaker of the warm south, with an abundance of character.
A hommage to the greatness of the Mouvedre grape. One of the greatest wines in Bandol, the grapes are never destemmed, so these wines can age breathtakingly well and never offer anything less then a beaker of the warm south, with an abundance of character.
A hommage to the greatness of the Mouvedre grape. One of the greatest wines in Bandol, the grapes are never destemmed, so these wines can age breathtakingly well and never offer anything less then a beaker of the warm south, with an abundance of character.
Cest Dans Les Yeux Quon Le Voit Blauert Anders Frederick Steen (50cl)
Merlot from the Oustrics at their Domaine du Mazel. The majority of the grapes were pressed directly, whilst a small proportion were destemmed by hand and left to infuse in the fermenting juice for around a month. After pressing, the wine spent a year resting in cuve, before being transferred to a demi-muid for a further year of ageing.
70yo maccabeu planted on hillsides of gneiss and orthogneiss (north and east facing which helps preserve freshness). The wine is aged with no bâtonnage in a new 500ltr barrel made by famous Austrian tonnelier Stockinger and several 4yo barriques
This vineyard that used to be worked by Jacques Puffenay is also exceptional, especially for focussed, laser-pure Chardonnay. The plot faces due south and sits on extremely limestone-rich soil so pale it appears white, which imparts striking minerality, chalky freshness, and longevity to the wine. Since 2016, this plot has been bottled separately.
Coteaux du Layon SGN Les Simonelles Chateau de la Genaiserie (50cl)
While older sweet wines are routinely available from this great estate, the sec and demi-sec wines tend to be consumed early and rarely re-appear in their glorious mature condition.
The result of a three-week carbonic maceration of three red grape varieties, Cab Franc and Sauv and Merlot. Aged in stainless steel vats. The wine is lighter; fruity and more supple then the Anciens cuvee.
`Single bottle. Classic and structured, much more a bordeaux style, not really hurt by the rain, floral Cabernet, good evolution, Barton comes to mind.` 93 Points Xavier Auerbach 11.12.2023 Cellertracker.
Gamay d`Auvergne, Gamay Beaujolais From iron-oxide rich red clay and some limestone, the grapes are macerated in wholebunches for about 2 weeks in stainless steel. It is then aged in old 228lt and 300lt barrels for 9 months.
100% Grenache Noir, from old vines grown on a unique terroir of limestone gravels and sand. Cultivated biodynamically. Manual harvest and natural vinification: carbonic maceration for 10 days, 6 months of maturation in vats, and all without sulphur. Bottled without fining or filtration, tiny suphur at bottling.
Vin de France L`Annee Blanc Les Clos Perdu [Pre-Arrival]
This vineyard that used to be worked by Jacques Puffenay is also exceptional, especially for focussed, laser-pure Chardonnay. The plot faces due south and sits on extremely limestone-rich soil so pale it appears white, which imparts striking minerality, chalky freshness, and longevity to the wine. Since 2016, this plot has been bottled separately.
`Jolie red robe; the nose shows a well shaped, forward aroma of plum fruit with a note of dusty trails, leafy, herbal touches. The palate gives a nicely firm richness, sustains well into a compact finish, chewy elements there from its youthful tannins. There is a good blood-iron thread through it that provides a burrow of freshness. This is genuine Châteauneuf, right in the zone of authenticity. From mid-2026. 2046-48 Oct 2023` **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
The importer of Rayas in the US, only carries only two other CNDPs - Santa Duc and Jerome Gradassi`s. Lofty company, but testatment to what Jerome has done with his Grandfathers own vines in only a few years. The smallest producer in the town, with only 800 cases being produced in a typical year - the artisanal methods are still at play here - in the early years moving fermented juice from the ancient fermentation tanks by hand with only a rope and bucket as there was no other way to do it. He works with cooler climates: mostly the lieux-dits of Palestor, Bois Dauphin, and Cabrière, where he aims for elegance rather then pure power. These are artisanal CNDPs in the old school and are a brilliant value.
The importer of Rayas in the US, only carries only two other CNDPs - Santa Duc and Jerome Gradassi`s. Lofty company, but testatment to what Jerome has done with his Grandfathers own vines in only a few years. The smallest producer in the town, with only 800 cases being produced in a typical year - the artisanal methods are still at play here - in the early years moving fermented juice from the ancient fermentation tanks by hand with only a rope and bucket as there was no other way to do it. He works with cooler climates: mostly the lieux-dits of Palestor, Bois Dauphin, and Cabrière, where he aims for elegance rather then pure power. These are artisanal CNDPs in the old school and are a brilliant value.
The importer of Rayas in the US, only carries only two other CNDPs - Santa Duc and Jerome Gradassi`s. Lofty company, but testatment to what Jerome has done with his Grandfathers own vines in only a few years. The smallest producer in the town, with only 800 cases being produced in a typical year - the artisanal methods are still at play here - in the early years moving fermented juice from the ancient fermentation tanks by hand with only a rope and bucket as there was no other way to do it. He works with cooler climates: mostly the lieux-dits of Palestor, Bois Dauphin, and Cabrière, where he aims for elegance rather then pure power. These are artisanal CNDPs in the old school and are a brilliant value.
Chateauneuf du Pape La Gloire de Mon Grand Pere Bosquet des Papes
After Philippe`s recent retirement, his son Tony has taken over at the domaine - the quality of the wines remains excellent, altough the new labels are not to everyone`s tastes!
`The bouquet has a garrigue, herbes de Provence landscape, centres on plum fruit with a smoke-tobacco angle and a winsome floral touch. It’s going to be a classic, varied Châteuneuf nose over time, worth waiting for. The palate is enjoyable, filled with red fruits that move along well, a note of cedar, and a pocket of late tannin that brings extra graininess. This is an unhurried, unforced wine, very much in the domaine style over the years. There is glow on the aftertaste. It’s suavely fruited on the finish, presents an authentic glass. From late 2019, is in the finesse camp. 14.5°` **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
`I think the Rayas 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape will turn out to eclipse the 2005. It is unequivocally the finest wine made here since Emmanuel Reynaud`s uncle, the late Jacques Reynaud, produced his brilliant 1995. This wine was just released this year, with the 2008 coming on the market in the next few months. The 2007 is a relatively dark ruby/purple-tinged wine, more intensely colored than most Rayas Chateauneufs tend to be, since they are made from 100% Grenache and color has never been one of their hallmarks. The extraordinarily youthful and still burgeoning aromatics of black raspberries, black cherries, truffles and licorice lead to a full-bodied, powerful Rayas with sweet tannin, adequate acidity, and an ethereal richness and unctuosity that delicately offers a sensual texture. It is full-bodied, concentrated and approachable, but won`t hit its peak for at least another 4-5 years and will last for 25 or more. This is a spectacular Rayas, the likes of which hasn`t existed at this qualitative level since 1995.` 97 Points Robert Parker
Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve de Celestins Henri Bonneau
`This wine is reminiscent of Roger Sabon`s Le Secret des Sabon, with a style that borders on Italian Amarone. Powerful, full-bodied, alcoholic flavors, redolent with truffle, meat juices, roasted herbs, tar, sweaty saddle leather, plum, and soy, are incredibly complex but also provocative, and no doubt controversial. In the mouth, the wine is fleshy, full-bodied, thick, and juicy, pushing the level of ripeness to the limit. A distinctive and singular effort, as all Henri Bonneau`s wines are, this wine is silky and velvety, but should continue to drink well for another 25-30 years.` 96 Points Robert Parker
`A towering effort, the 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes soars from the glass with pristine crème de cassis, raspberry jam, black plum, scorched earth, incense, mint, exotic spice and white pepper aromas. The precision of the individual perfumes has a laser-like quality rarely seen in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Full-bodied and framed by ever-so-velvety tannins, it reaches a spherical dimension in the mouth. The recent adoption of 3,000-liter Austrian oak barrels beautifully contributed to the shape of this wine, giving it terrific poise and tension. (Drink between 2026-2042)` 97 Points Nicolas Greinacher
Inky-iodine, blackberry fruit aroma in a sweetly centred nose, mulled fruit in style from the sun, black olives, lurking reduction. The palate is close-knit, tenacious, and there’s the swift arrival and onset of puckish tannins, floral notes on the aftertaste. This is gnarled wine with a firm core. The fruit is expressive, pure, but not obvious. It’s very tightly packed. The tannins have a dry style munchiness. This shows some Chaillot floral notes. 13.5°. From 2024, by when it will probably revert to *****. John Livingstone-Learmonth
`The palate is very rich, extends much juice going all over the place – what a Road Runner. It has a violets, floral sign-off. The tannins are great, too, tasty and bright – which is a signature of the vintage. 38 years` ***** John Livingstone-Learmonth
`Flirting with perfection, the 2010 Cornas Les Eygats boasts a fabulous bouquet of incense, subtle smoke, black truffles, pen ink, blackberries and cassis. Massive with sweet tannin as well as an unreal skyscraper-like texture across the mid-palate, this broad, savory, classic Cornas should drink well for 25+ years.` 99 Points Robert Parker
Made in the cellars of Vincent Paris - Ex Yarra Yerring Winemaker turned Burgundy Vigneron makes one of the silkiest Cornas` of the appellation. Coming from Les Cotes at the Southern end of the appellation, where other growers like Juge, Voges and Lionnet have parcels, it seems particurly well suited to the vignerons stylistic visions. Deep
` Reduction hovers on the nose, with airs of tea leaves, piled high blackberries; there’s s light noble Volatile Acidity, savoury and fleshy styling. There’s a lot here, a lot going on. This is suave, fleshy; old vines gras prevails over the freshness and grip of the year. It bursts with rich content and soaked black fruits, with a bonny hover of iris flowers. It’s violet and rocky, savoury, very Cornas on the finale. Stylish, well balanced. 13.5°. 2035-38 Oct 2016` ***** John Livingstone Learmonth
`Inky ruby. Powerful, deeply perfumed aromas of black and blue fruit preserves, licorice and olive, along with a sexy floral overtone. Coats the palate with juicy blackberry, boysenberry, violet pastille and spicecake flavors, while a smoky mineral flourish adds vibrant lift. Chewy tannins shape an impressively long, mineral-accented finish that shows very good power and spicy thrust` 93 Points Josh Reynolds
`Opaque violet color. Precise, mineral-accented scents of blackberry, cassis and exotic spices are accompanied by a slowly emerging floral nuance. Sappy and energetic on the palate, displaying sharp delineation to its concentrated black/blue fruit, floral pastille, olive and allspice flavors. Finishes extremely long and spicy, with intense mineral thrust, a hint of candied violet and subtly chewy, harmonious tannins that make a late appearance.` 95 Points Vinous
`One of the wines of the vintage is Voge’s 2005 Cornas Les Vieilles Fontaines. Coming from a single plot of granite soils, this inky colored beauty offers incredible purity in its plum, blackberry, licorice and violet-laced aromas and flavors. Showing more and more minerality with time in the glass, this full-bodied, rich, thrillingly concentrated Cornas is reminiscent of the 2010 with its notable freshness, building tannin and blockbuster length. It will have 20-25 years of longevity.`97 Points Jeb Dunnuck
`from Côte Rozier, Ritolas, Rozier, Leyat (Brune sector), 1982 clonal Syrah, part destemmed, pre-fermentation of 4-5 days at 10-14°C, 21-23 day vinification, pumping overs at the start and finish at 28°C, with a lot of cap punching, aged 3-10 year 228-litre oak casks 18 months, unfined, unfiltered, first wine 2004, used to be the Sophia cuvée of Gasse Lafoy, 2,000 b` John Livingstone-Learmonth
`One of the standout wines whilst visiting the Rhone Valley, even though at the moment the nose is more taciturn than the Landonne. No worries, a few swirls and you get an idea of the intense black fruits, undergrowth and leather, all with great definition. The palate is full-bodied with exquisite balance, burly black fruits, touches of dark chocolate and Provencal herbs with hints of thyme and fennel, good grip on the finish. Very natural and refined. Drink 2011-2020+. Tasted November 2008.` (93-95) Neal Martin
`As in 2012, the 2011 Cote Rotie Cote Blonde has the most depth and class. More reserved than the La Landonne currently, it yields notions of raspberry, crushed flowers, licorice and spice to go with a full-bodied, backward and beautifully concentrated profile on the palate. Perfectly balanced, with integrated acidity and ample, fine tannin, it should be at its best from 2017-2032.` 95 Points, Jeb Dunnuck.
`Bright purple. Expansive blackberry, licorice, smoky bacon and potpourri aromas are complemented by a strong mineral overlay. Seamless and broad on the palate, offering concentrated black and blue fruit liqueur, salty olive and floral pastille flavors and an emphatic jolt of exotic spices. Finishes with repeating mineral, floral and dark fruit character, supple, well-knit tannins and outstanding tenacity.` 96 Points, Josh Raynolds.
`Has a very serene, composed nose that bears gracious fruit across it, oily black fruits. Has a fleshy, outward facing debut on the palate – this is much more open than usual, and bears 1999 similarities. Rich, but not voluptuous, which is good. Touch of late tannin in it.` ****(*) John Livingstone-Learmonth
`Has a very serene, composed nose that bears gracious fruit across it, oily black fruits. Has a fleshy, outward facing debut on the palate – this is much more open than usual, and bears 1999 similarities. Rich, but not voluptuous, which is good. Touch of late tannin in it.` ****(*) John Livingstone-Learmonth
`very clear red robe; the nose is shapely, aromatic, on red fruit, is pure, floral with red cherry and raspberry. There’s a kind sweetness underpinning it, a pastille effect. The palate moves with Burgundian finesse, bears red cherries, has firm sides, comes from within, has iron, is structured. It’s aromatic with a touch of suave gras near the close, gras encouraged by the Viognier. It’s intricate, grippy, unusual, delivers interest. A granite blend would have more sucrosity. The aftertaste is rocky, finely powdered. Harvested before the rain which helped the Coteaux de Tupin. From 2022-23. 2042-44` Only 600 bottles **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
One of the icons of traditional Cote Rotie, Maxime Champet continues to stick to the principles of the family, in guiding the Northern sector fruit to a long lived, well-balanced wine where a core of iron is intermingled with secondary flavours that reach quite mind-boggling levels of complexity by ten years. Luckily, prices remain affordable for the time-being.
One of the icons of traditional Cote Rotie, Maxime Champet continues to stick to the principles of the family, in guiding the Northern sector fruit to a long lived, well-balanced wine where a core of iron is intermingled with secondary flavours that reach quite mind-boggling levels of complexity by ten years. Luckily, prices remain affordable for the time-being.
Gramenon are arguably the finest producer of Cotes de Rhone in the South. Their cheaper wines are simple, but expressive - and as you go up in the range, you get close to levels of complexity and soul that you rarely see outside mythical domaines like Rayas and Bonneau
Gramenon are arguably the finest producer of Cotes de Rhone in the South. Their cheaper wines are simple, but expressive - and as you go up in the range, you get close to levels of complexity and soul that you rarely see outside mythical domaines like Rayas and Bonneau
Gramenon are arguably the finest producer of Cotes de Rhone in the South. Their cheaper wines are simple, but expressive - and as you go up in the range, you get close to levels of complexity and soul that you rarely see outside mythical domaines like Rayas and Bonneau
Gramenon are arguably the finest producer of Cotes de Rhone in the South. Their cheaper wines are simple, but expressive - and as you go up in the range, you get close to levels of complexity and soul that you rarely see outside mythical domaines like Rayas and Bonneau
Gramenon are arguably the finest producer of Cotes de Rhone in the South. Their cheaper wines are simple, but expressive - and as you go up in the range, you get close to levels of complexity and soul that you rarely see outside mythical domaines like Rayas and Bonneau
Gramenon are arguably the finest producer of Cotes de Rhone in the South. Their cheaper wines are simple, but expressive - and as you go up in the range, you get close to levels of complexity and soul that you rarely see outside mythical domaines like Rayas and Bonneau
Gramenon are arguably the finest producer of Cotes de Rhone in the South. Their cheaper wines are simple, but expressive - and as you go up in the range, you get close to levels of complexity and soul that you rarely see outside mythical domaines like Rayas and Bonneau
Gramenon are arguably the finest producer of Cotes de Rhone in the South. Their cheaper wines are simple, but expressive - and as you go up in the range, you get close to levels of complexity and soul that you rarely see outside mythical domaines like Rayas and Bonneau
Gramenon are arguably the finest producer of Cotes de Rhone in the South. Their cheaper wines are simple, but expressive - and as you go up in the range, you get close to levels of complexity and soul that you rarely see outside mythical domaines like Rayas and Bonneau
`Dark robe; the nose is promising, black fruit gums, a discreet aroma, is oily, nicely grapey, a serene and stylish opening. The palate is also stylish from the off, holds suave content, bears sève [sap] from the old vines and good gras, extends with notably fine powder-sand tannins, is well orchestrated, up there on quality, is very good, top tack. 2034-36` ****(*) John Livingstone-Learmonth
`Dark robe; the nose is promising, black fruit gums, a discreet aroma, is oily, nicely grapey, a serene and stylish opening. The palate is also stylish from the off, holds suave content, bears sève [sap] from the old vines and good gras, extends with notably fine powder-sand tannins, is well orchestrated, up there on quality, is very good, top tack. 2034-36` ****(*) John Livingstone-Learmonth
The wines of Dard & Ribo enjoy a loyal following because they are totally delicious from the traps, but they are a noteworthy domaine for being one of the very first to work in a completely natural way, that prized juiciness and drinkability through low-fi vinifcation and meticulous organic farming.
On the subject of recent years, Yann believes that 2005 may be even better than 1999. It`s like 2003 but with a balance of richness and freshness that I`ve never seen before. His 05s are very slow maturing and just starting to come around now."
Crozes-Hermitage Les Picaudieres Rousset [Pre-Arrival]
Previously farmed by Raymond Roure, there`s little doubt Picaudieres is one of the greatest, if not the greatest vineyard in Crozes Hermitage. Steep granite and old vines here. John Livingstone-Learmonth believes it is `Certainly better then many Hermitages from the eastern part of the hill`.
Crozes-Hermitage Les Picaudieres Rousset [Pre-Arrival]
Previously farmed by Raymond Roure, there`s little doubt Picaudieres is one of the greatest, if not the greatest vineyard in Crozes Hermitage. Steep granite and old vines here. John Livingstone-Learmonth believes it is `Certainly better then many Hermitages from the eastern part of the hill`.
Crozes-Hermitage Les Picaudieres Rousset [Pre-Arrival]
Previously farmed by Raymond Roure, there`s little doubt Picaudieres is one of the greatest, if not the greatest vineyard in Crozes Hermitage. Steep granite and old vines here. John Livingstone-Learmonth believes it is `Certainly better then many Hermitages from the eastern part of the hill`.
The wines of Dard & Ribo enjoy a loyal following because they are totally delicious from the traps, but they are a noteworthy domaine for being one of the very first to work in a completely natural way, that prized juiciness and drinkability through low-fi vinifcation and meticulous organic farming.
The wines of Dard & Ribo enjoy a loyal following because they are totally delicious from the traps, but they are a noteworthy domaine for being one of the very first to work in a completely natural way, that prized juiciness and drinkability through low-fi vinifcation and meticulous organic farming.
The wines of Dard & Ribo enjoy a loyal following because they are totally delicious from the traps, but they are a noteworthy domaine for being one of the very first to work in a completely natural way, that prized juiciness and drinkability through low-fi vinifcation and meticulous organic farming.
`The Chambolle-Musigny of the Rhône, the 2015 IGP Vaucluse from Jerome Bressy is a totally sensational blend of 50% Grenache and the balance a mix of Mourvèdre, Carignan, Counoise, Vaccarèse, Cinsault, Syrah, and Terret Noir (we`re getting close to all the varieties). Aged in a mix of concrete tanks, foudre, demi-muids, and barrels, bottled unfined and unfiltered, this naked beauty has just about everything you could want from a bottle of wine. Notes of rose petals, kirsch, blackberries, garrigue, and spice all emerge from this pure, elegant and gorgeous red that offers full-bodied richness, no hard edges and a killer finish. It got more than a few Wows in my notes and is an ethereally textured southern Rhône that needs to be tasted to be believed. Anticipated maturity: 2017 - 2030` 97 points, Jeb Dunnuck
`The magnificent 2009 Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes boasts a black/purple color as well as a wonderful nose of creosote, incense, charcoal, blackberry jam, acacia flowers, white chocolate and a hint of espresso roast. Full-bodied and unctuously textured with low acidity and magnificent density, this 2009 can be drunk in 5-6 years or cellared for 30-50 years.` 98 Points Robert Parker
`The 2016 L’Hermitage came from another magnum. This strides authoritatively into the room wanting to make a big impression with its penetrating scents of maraschino cherries, blueberry and cassis on the nose, bunches of violet intermingling with olive tapenade. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins and spine-tingling acidity. Yes, it is way too young to broach, yet the pedigree of this Hermitage is patently obvious.` 97 Points Neal Martin
`This is autumn in the glass, with wet-leaf, fresh-mushroom, smoke and dried-meat character. Orange peel, dark fruits, and game pâté. Full body with incredible depth, length, ripe fruit and intensity. It goes on for minutes. Stunning finish. It is so rich, decadent and intense, but fresh and long. It defines greatness. It defines what hermitage was, is and should be.` 98 Points James Suckling
Hermitage La Chapelle Jaboulet (Bin-Soiled Labels)
`Time is catching up with what was a **** wine in an underestimated year: pretty, mature red colour. Dry, taut bouquet, smells of furniture varnish, is earthy, too. Gentle, spiced plum opening to palate. Is grainy, there is a prune, snappy mineral effect. Still OK - but on the fade. Mineral, cough mixture falvour towards the finish.` **(*) John Livingstone-Learmonth
The wines of Dard & Ribo enjoy a loyal following because they are totally delicious from the traps, but they are a noteworthy domaine for being one of the very first to work in a completely natural way, that prized juiciness and drinkability through low-fi vinifcation and meticulous organic farming.
On the subject of recent years, Yann believes that 2005 may be even better than 1999. It`s like 2003 but with a balance of richness and freshness that I`ve never seen before. His 05s are very slow maturing and just starting to come around now."
The wines of Dard & Ribo enjoy a loyal following because they are totally delicious from the traps, but they are a noteworthy domaine for being one of the very first to work in a completely natural way, that prized juiciness and drinkability through low-fi vinifcation and meticulous organic farming.
The ‘Confidential Wine Culture’ of St-Joseph has long clutched Domaine de Gouye tight to its chest, as it did his neighbour and long-time friend Raymond Trollat. The Gouye family have most of their vines in the lieux-dit of Gouye, high up on the hills over St-Jean de Muzols. Separated by a ravine from Aubert and Pichonnier, Trollat’s old plots. Philippe has 3 hectares here mostly planted between 1955 and 1975. Due to its high altitude, the wines manage to retain freshness even in warm years. It is a phenomenal terroir, worked with absolute conviction in the old methods by Philippe Desbos. As well as Trollat, he had much in common with Elizabeth Fogier, a female vigneron of St-Jean de Muzols who defended the old style in the 1980s and 1990s, living an unpretentious and steady farmers existence like Philippe and his family do now. Hens cluck at your feet, a horse to plough. Not much changes here.
`Vibrant, mineral-accented dark berries, cherry-cola, potpourri and olive aromas show outstanding detail and spicy lift. Nicely concentrated but nervy as well, offering intense blueberry, cassis, bitter cherry and salty olive flavors with a bracing snap of cracked pepper. Shows impressive tension and finishes very long and precise, with well-judged tannins coming in late.` 94-96 Points Josh Reynolds.
`The bouquet has a garrigue, herbes de Provence landscape, centres on plum fruit with a smoke-tobacco angle and a winsome floral touch. It’s going to be a classic, varied Châteuneuf nose over time, worth waiting for. The palate is enjoyable, filled with red fruits that move along well, a note of cedar, and a pocket of late tannin that brings extra graininess. This is an unhurried, unforced wine, very much in the domaine style over the years. There is glow on the aftertaste. It’s suavely fruited on the finish, presents an authentic glass. From late 2019, is in the finesse camp. 14.5°` **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
The ‘Confidential Wine Culture’ of St-Joseph has long clutched Domaine de Gouye tight to its chest, as it did his neighbour and long-time friend Raymond Trollat. The Gouye family have most of their vines in the lieux-dit of Gouye, high up on the hills over St-Jean de Muzols. Separated by a ravine from Aubert and Pichonnier, Trollat’s old plots. Philippe has 3 hectares here mostly planted between 1955 and 1975. Due to its high altitude, the wines manage to retain freshness even in warm years. It is a phenomenal terroir, worked with absolute conviction in the old methods by Philippe Desbos. As well as Trollat, he had much in common with Elizabeth Fogier, a female vigneron of St-Jean de Muzols who defended the old style in the 1980s and 1990s, living an unpretentious and steady farmers existence like Philippe and his family do now. Hens cluck at your feet, a horse to plough. Not much changes here.
The ‘Confidential Wine Culture’ of St-Joseph has long clutched Domaine de Gouye tight to its chest, as it did his neighbour and long-time friend Raymond Trollat. The Gouye family have most of their vines in the lieux-dit of Gouye, high up on the hills over St-Jean de Muzols. Separated by a ravine from Aubert and Pichonnier, Trollat’s old plots. Philippe has 3 hectares here mostly planted between 1955 and 1975. Due to its high altitude, the wines manage to retain freshness even in warm years. It is a phenomenal terroir, worked with absolute conviction in the old methods by Philippe Desbos. As well as Trollat, he had much in common with Elizabeth Fogier, a female vigneron of St-Jean de Muzols who defended the old style in the 1980s and 1990s, living an unpretentious and steady farmers existence like Philippe and his family do now. Hens cluck at your feet, a horse to plough. Not much changes here.
`Based on 1923 Grenache on sand-limestone soils, topped up with 3% white grapes, and is a major offering, a wine of probity and expression.` John Livingstone-Learmonth
Syrah (2004, massale) from 0.5 hectare on mica-schist hillside soils at Vion, whole bunch 500-litre amphore vinification, then topped up & left 6 months, then pressed, then another 6 months in amphore, unfined, unfiltered, not made every year, plot selection wine, up to 2,000 b
The ‘Confidential Wine Culture’ of St-Joseph has long clutched Domaine de Gouye tight to its chest, as it did his neighbour and long-time friend Raymond Trollat. The Gouye family have most of their vines in the lieux-dit of Gouye, high up on the hills over St-Jean de Muzols. Separated by a ravine from Aubert and Pichonnier, Trollat’s old plots. Philippe has 3 hectares here mostly planted between 1955 and 1975. Due to its high altitude, the wines manage to retain freshness even in warm years. It is a phenomenal terroir, worked with absolute conviction in the old methods by Philippe Desbos. As well as Trollat, he had much in common with Elizabeth Fogier, a female vigneron of St-Jean de Muzols who defended the old style in the 1980s and 1990s, living an unpretentious and steady farmers existence like Philippe and his family do now. Hens cluck at your feet, a horse to plough. Not much changes here.
The importer of Rayas in the US, only carries only two other CNDPs - Santa Duc and Jerome Gradassi`s. Lofty company, but testatment to what Jerome has done with his Grandfathers own vines in only a few years. The smallest producer in the town, with only 800 cases being produced in a typical year - the artisanal methods are still at play here - in the early years moving fermented juice from the ancient fermentation tanks by hand with only a rope and bucket as there was no other way to do it. He works with cooler climates: mostly the lieux-dits of Palestor, Bois Dauphin, and Cabrière, where he aims for elegance rather then pure power. These are artisanal CNDPs in the old school and are a brilliant value.
Xavier Gerard producers about 400 cases of this top-tier Condrieu from the slopes of the Cote Chatillon. 40 YO vines, and aged in mix of steel and large oak barrels. Very ageable.
Xavier Gerard producers about 400 cases of this top-tier Condrieu from the slopes of the Cote Chatillon. 40 YO vines, and aged in mix of steel and large oak barrels. Very ageable. `has a firm, broad bouquet with lift and some spontaneity, herbal tea and cooked pear airs. The palate gives an oily textured level of content with tannin in the second half, is very much a structured wine, de la terre. It’s intense late on, dried fruits, and firm lip smack there. It engages fully along the palate, doesn’t look left or right, drives on, has a solid aftertaste. It’s very true to its place, is STGT wine. Decanting advised. From 2024, no problem waiting` **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
`From Gonon site at Malleval (1989, 1997 Viognier), fermented, raised 6-7 year oak casks 6-12 months, depending on how long the malo takes to happen, 1,200 b` JLL
The wines of Dard & Ribo enjoy a loyal following because they are totally delicious from the traps, but they are a noteworthy domaine for being one of the very first to work in a completely natural way, that prized juiciness and drinkability through low-fi vinifcation and meticulous organic farming.
`The 2011 Ermitage Cuvee de l`Oree comes from a lieu-dit known as Les Murets planted with 80- to 90-year-old Marsanne vines. The bouquet offers up scents of Asian spices, lychee nuts, white currant liqueur and peach and apricot marmalade. This stunning, honeyed, flamboyant white is perfection in a glass. Drink it over the next half century. Drink 2013-2027`, 100 Points, Robert Parker.
` Pale gold. Intense, sharply delineated aromas of fresh nectarine, pear nectar, orange, honey and pungent flowers, along with a smoky mineral overtone. Deeply pitched citrus and orchard fruit, peach liqueur and honeysuckle flavors stain the palate and become deeper with air, picking up a hint of toasted almonds and showing powerful back-end cut. The mineral and honey notes repeat emphatically on a strikingly long, focused finish that leaves juicy pear and floral notes behind. (Drink between 2024-2034)` 95 Points Josh Reynolds.
`Brilliant straw-gold. Powerful, mineral-accented orchard and pit fruit aromas are complemented by lemon curd, iodine and pungent floral accents. Intense, palate-staining pear nectar and Meyer lemon flavors show superb concentration. Definition and a sexy floral nuance build through the mid-palate. Opens up steadily on an extremely long, floral-tinged finish that emphatically echoes the pit fruit and mineral notes. (Drink between 2024-2034)` 96 Points, Josh Reynolds.
`Moving to the three single vineyard Hermitage Blancs, these are all perfect wines yet offer distinct characters. The 2019 Ermitage De L’Orée comes from more limestone soils in the Les Murets lieu-dit, on the eastern side of the appellation and was brought up in 15% new demi-muids. It reveals a vivid gold hue to go with gorgeous honeyed peach, white currants, quince, crushed stone, and white flower-like aromas and flavors. This full-bodied white has terrific concentration, a rich, layered mouthfeel, beautiful acidity, and a finish that just won`t quit. Offering more fat and opulence than the L`Ermite and more minerality than the Le Meal, this pinnacle Hermitage Blanc needs a year or three of bottle age, then should drink nicely for 5-7 years, at which point it`s best forgotten in the cellar for another decade. It should last for 20-30 years.` 100 Points, Jeb Dunnock.
The wines of Dard & Ribo enjoy a loyal following because they are totally delicious from the traps, but they are a noteworthy domaine for being one of the very first to work in a completely natural way, that prized juiciness and drinkability through low-fi vinifcation and meticulous organic farming.
The wines of Dard & Ribo enjoy a loyal following because they are totally delicious from the traps, but they are a noteworthy domaine for being one of the very first to work in a completely natural way, that prized juiciness and drinkability through low-fi vinifcation and meticulous organic farming.
`Firm yellow colour; the bouquet is elegantly rich, bears cooked citrus fruit airs, a nod of the head towards the tropics, pineapple included. The palate is nice and cool all though, gives a stylish richness, the texture silken. It ends with a roundness that pleases, is well co-ordinated, detailed and flowing white Hermitage. The aftertaste is buttery. From spring 2020. 2035-37` **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
`The bouquet is broad, shows hazelnut, a hint of aniseed, ripe peach, can spread further and emerge, walnut in the background, decanting helpful. The palate has a nutty debut, carries a line of freshness, neat spine, and that holds its direction in a linear manner, is lightly oily, in a quiet phase just now. There is solid gras within, tight, a little tannic. It’s taking its time. 14.5°. From 2026-27.` **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
`The nose offers a pinpoint hazelnut air, greengage plum, some fruit accuracy, is just starting out. The palate comes with vanilla, light oaking, some pep in its step, is linear, on white fruits, apricot, ends on caramel-toffee tones, roundness. It has good poise, is unhurried, its length ticking over well, and a fresh dab on the aftertaste, the length very correct. 14°. 2039-41` **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
`The palate glides along; there is toast on the debut, and good style in the apricot and quince fruit, some Poire William as well. It becomes chewy, and intensifies as it finishes, like a red wine. This is STGT wine. This has inner strength, and the freshness of the vintage helps to keep it moving. Good balance, a complete wine. 14°. 1,500 b as usual` ***** John Livingstone-Learmonth
The wines of Dard & Ribo enjoy a loyal following because they are totally delicious from the traps, but they are a noteworthy domaine for being one of the very first to work in a completely natural way, that prized juiciness and drinkability through low-fi vinifcation and meticulous organic farming.
`Yellow, quite a pale robe. Has a salty, spiced nose, dried fruits airs and a light note of peanut oil. The palate holds agreeable, rolling white fruit - peach, a little apricot - and some good style content as it ends, roundly, clearly, with joli length. There are hints of verbena in the flavour. Good, stylish Saint-Péray. 13.5°.` ***(*) John Livingstone-Learmonth
50% Roussanne, 30% Marsanne, 20% Viognier from Rozay at Condrieu (Viognier, 0.65 ha), Vérin (Viognier, 0.1 ha), Ampuis (Roussanne, 0.3 ha), & 0.5 ha each of Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne (2018-20) on ex glacier soils at Péage de Roussillon (left bank, Isère, 38), direct press, 12 hrs at <15°C, then steel vat fermented at 16°C, raised 7-8 months, malo completed, first wine 2020, 7,000 b - John Livingstone-Learmonth
Started in 2007, Chris Mullineaux has rapidly ascended to the elite of SA winemakers - his wines, are typically vinified identically and only the terroir of the different soils (Granite, Schist, etc) determines the profile.
`The 2020 Porseleinberg was a hot and dry season that saw 355mm of rain that moistened the soil sufficiently that, together with smooth flowering, saw larger bunches. The harvest was one of the quickest ever (February 5-19). Matured for 12 months in foudres and concrete eggs, it has a beautifully defined bouquet with a mélange of red and black fruit, wild fennel, leather and light orange rind scents that blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, very harmonious, veering more toward red fruit intermixed with black pepper, clove, tobacco and allspice. Filigree on the finish, this might be the most elegant Porseleinberg to date, yet there is such finesse that you are utterly seduced. A long and prosperous future ahead. 2028-2055` 97 Points, Neal Martin
`This Swartland property is owned by Boekenhoutskloof but run independently by gifted winemaker Callie Louw. Alive and dynamic, this soars out of the glass, a touch of firework smoke to the vibrant berry fruits. Incredible energy and elegance on the palate, great freshness and focus, tiny tensile tannins and zesty acidity. Very long, this crackles on and on. The handsome labels are produced at the estate on a vintage Heidelberg press – but don’t assume there is any style over substance here: the 2017 Porseleinberg is a truly great Syrah.` 98 Points, Matt Walls, Decanter
Started in 2007, Chris Mullineaux has rapidly ascended to the elite of SA winemakers - his wines, are typically vinified identically and only the terroir of the different soils (Granite, Schist, etc) determines the profile.
This cult winery in Spain is producing the goods. Highly influenced by the wines of Chateau Rayas (who isn`t!) - they combine power with a real lightness and red-berry clarity. The tiny production cuvee`s continue to be well collected, and represent the apex of New Spain. In what represents a great example of the speed of transmission of quality and reputation. Daniel Landi describes how ‘everyone was ashamed of Garnacha’ when he was growing up in Mentrida. Now their wines belong at the very top table of Grenache and can compete with anything in the world.
El Vivero “Colección Origen” Garnacha Finca Casa Balaguer
A single field blend mainly Garnacha, Garnacha peluda, Rojal, Valencí, Tortosina and others.Fermented and aged for four months in clay vats, zero sulphur 13% . Decant!
This cult winery in Spain is producing the goods. Highly influenced by the wines of Chateau Rayas (who isn`t!) - they combine power with a real lightness and red-berry clarity. The tiny production cuvee`s continue to be well collected, and represent the apex of New Spain. In what represents a great example of the speed of transmission of quality and reputation. Daniel Landi describes how ‘everyone was ashamed of Garnacha’ when he was growing up in Mentrida. Now their wines belong at the very top table of Grenache and can compete with anything in the world.
This cult winery in Spain is producing the goods. Highly influenced by the wines of Chateau Rayas (who isn`t!) - they combine power with a real lightness and red-berry clarity. The tiny production cuvee`s continue to be well collected, and represent the apex of New Spain. In what represents a great example of the speed of transmission of quality and reputation. Daniel Landi describes how ‘everyone was ashamed of Garnacha’ when he was growing up in Mentrida. Now their wines belong at the very top table of Grenache and can compete with anything in the world.
Grenache from twenty year old vines planted over limestone in El Pinell de Brai. The grapes were destemmed and spent just three days on the skins before a brief rest in terracotta amphorae.
Garnacha Tinta from Joan Ramon Escoda and Cariñena from the Terme de Laureano vineyard, fermented separately before being assembled in a single terracotta amphora
This cult winery in Spain is producing the goods. Highly influenced by the wines of Chateau Rayas (who isn`t!) - they combine power with a real lightness and red-berry clarity. The tiny production cuvee`s continue to be well collected, and represent the apex of New Spain. In what represents a great example of the speed of transmission of quality and reputation. Daniel Landi describes how ‘everyone was ashamed of Garnacha’ when he was growing up in Mentrida. Now their wines belong at the very top table of Grenache and can compete with anything in the world.
This cult winery in Spain is producing the goods. Highly influenced by the wines of Chateau Rayas (who isn`t!) - they combine power with a real lightness and red-berry clarity. The tiny production cuvee`s continue to be well collected, and represent the apex of New Spain. In what represents a great example of the speed of transmission of quality and reputation. Daniel Landi describes how ‘everyone was ashamed of Garnacha’ when he was growing up in Mentrida. Now their wines belong at the very top table of Grenache and can compete with anything in the world.
`The 2001 Gran Reserva 904 will not be released for another 3 years. Dark ruby-colored with a garnet rim, it displays a lovely nose of Asian spices, incense, tobacco, balsamic, and blackberry. On the palate it has exceptional depth, layers of spicy black fruit, excellent ripeness, and an elegant personality. Upon release it should continue to evolve for another 5-6 years and drink well through 2040.` 96 Points Jay Miller
Laureano Serres farms six hectares of vineyards in Terra Alta, near Priorat - spread over parcels in El Pinell at around 170 metres of altitude and higher up where they reach some 500 metres above sea level. This height, and his taste, tends to lend the wines real freshness and vibrancy.
