Joe Gilmour Thoughts

‘The thing about Zaltos’, I pompously opined, ‘is that they look delicate but they’re actually surprisingly strong’. He looked at me bemusedly. Look, I said, ‘Look how they can actually flex if you squeeze them slightly’. The glass shattered in my hands. “Ben – I’m so sorry – I’ll buy you a replacement” These beautiful but fragile glasses that you could almost balance on your little finger are bound up  with the new movement of acidity dominant wines and traditional winemaking styles. At times they are almost too precise and uncharitable on a wine that make drinking for pleasure a …

Joe GilmourGlasses

Julien Sunier – Energy for days

Joe Gilmour Thoughts

Seeing the 2019s from Julien Sunier coming onto the list reminded me how vital is the life-force of this man and his wines. It’s hard to convey how intense is the energy of this guy, like staring at the sun. It seems to be in inverse proportion to his proximity to his winery in leafy, rural Avenas. When I’ve met him in London he seems a shadow of his true self at home, vibrating with passion as he talks about one of the x different projects he’s working on. If you ever want to feel anxiety about your own industry, …

Joe GilmourJulien Sunier – Energy for days

Chablis is not all a waste of time

Joe Gilmour Thoughts

Up to about ten years ago I had literally no means to buy any expensive wine. Which was why it was it would be difficult to describe the sense of anticipation when a friend who worked in a central London bar in the late 1990s gave me a 6 pack of 1990 Chablis Grand Cru (Blanchots I think) by Etienne Defaix. It had been wrongly delivered by his supplier. He knew I loved wine but couldn’t really afford to buy anything decent. Sadly, as I tried to extract something to like from each brown, lifeless bottle, I hatched the belief …

Joe GilmourChablis is not all a waste of time

Have you no morals man!?

Joe Gilmour Thoughts

He came in about seven-thirty. A regular customer, 60ish maybe, with the vibe of a geography teacher and a shy, gruffish character. Fino sherry was his thing, a few half botles a week. This evening was different though, he’d clearly been drinking heavily and swimming deep in what could have been a Mike Leigh film or a night reading about all the sorrow and inequality in the world. He was eyeing up our expensive wines, of which we had a lot in our Kensington shop. He was angry, very angry indeed.  “How can you sell a wine for £1,000?” he …

Joe GilmourHave you no morals man!?

Schueller Slyvaner

Joe Gilmour Thoughts

This pandemic has felt at times like running the latter stages of a marathon. In particular the feeling when someone says “not far to go now!” and you run on for another 5 miles and then some other perky guy says exactly the same thing. You want to stop, catch your breath and say – someone said that five fucking miles earlier! Thankfully, wine has been a constant source of solace through some of the bleaker evenings of the past year. A nice American emailed a while back suggesting that drinking a bottle of Schueller was a thrill-ride.   In …

Joe GilmourSchueller Slyvaner

Recent Drinking

Joe Gilmour Thoughts

2018 Rozas 1er, Commado G Having slept in a vineyard myself when my bike broke down in Southern France, I enjoyed reading about how the two founders of Commando G, Daniel Landi and Fernando Garcia would sleep in their camper van in the Rayas vineyards. When they finally plucked up the courage to ask for a tour and various geographical features were pointed out, they must have looked between themselves and thought ‘yeah, we pissed against that tree’. Whether sleeping in a vineyard achieves the same feat of psychogeographical osmosis as listening to self-help cassettes in your sleep, I don’t …

Joe GilmourRecent Drinking