Wherefore art thou Pierre?

Joe Gilmour Thoughts

They seek him here, they seek him there, the wines of Pierre Benetiere, they’re never there. To the dedicated followers of Northern Rhone fashion, Benetiere came upon us quietly. Me, I heard there was a tiny producer making wines from the south of the appellation, that had a Burgundian tendency that recalled the best work of Jean-Michel Stephan. After selling parcels of the 09 and 12, you could count me in. But the flow of wines stopped. After chasing the agents for some time, I spoke to the buyer who could no longer offer the wines. Why? Benetiere couldn’t be …

Joe GilmourWherefore art thou Pierre?

Paul Pernot Bourgogne Blanc

Joe Gilmour Thoughts

There aren’t too many Puligny producers actually based in Puligny – something to do with the high water table. One of the oldest and most classic is Paul Pernot – Their gothic labels capture their philosophy well. It is a style like Ramonet I think,  the acidity is always vibrant, and the wines age very well, but it never tends towards the super crisp, almost tart style that is en-vogue in some places. As Jasper Morris MW notes: “At present, 80% of Pernot’s wines are sold on to extremely fortunate Negociants in Beaune. However, the 20% that Paul retains and …

Joe GilmourPaul Pernot Bourgogne Blanc

Coronavirus Drinkathon Part 10

Joe Gilmour Thoughts

There was a certain amount of ribbing when an old colleague contributed his blog post ‘Make mine a half” it is true. What sad specimen of manhood couldn’t drink a bottle of wine over two days we reasoned. Roll on ten years, and I can see the logic. Sometimes a half bottle is what you want for an evening. Just a glass or two. So then, what am I doing drinking a magnum on my own tonight? God knows. 1989 Chardonnay Domaine Rolet About 6 months ago I brought a large consignment of magnums from Rolet in Jura from 1988 …

Joe GilmourCoronavirus Drinkathon Part 10

Coronavirus Drinkathon Part 9

Joe Gilmour Thoughts

2017 Moulin a Vent Domaine de Vissoux Tutti frutti, oh rootie. Wop bop a loo bop a lop bom bom! A real Little Richard of a wine, so full of strut, so full of fruit. All of the red kind. Cranberry, raspberry, redcurrant, cherry. Very nicely balanced and long – lots of complexity. So opulent though, it needs I think a little bit of time, just to civilise itself a bit – maybe it never will, and that wouldn’t be too bad, but its just a bit much for me at the minute. 2015 Saumur Blanc Les Portes St Jean, …

Joe GilmourCoronavirus Drinkathon Part 9

Coronavirus Drinkathon Part 8

Joe Gilmour Thoughts

No-one better embodies the changing fortunes of Cornas than Franck Balthazar. His wines since the acquisition of Verset’s prime 1914 Chaillot vineyard have been terrific – his breakout vintag was the 2010. a really well-chiselled wine. I remember my offer, which had the Chaillot at £26 a bottle – this was in 2015. A smart buy if you clicked reply. His wines are great, and are clearly following the trajectory of Allemand, although are perhaps not that far now from being a bit fully priced in the market. Not to say, they won’t still go up in price – because …

Joe GilmourCoronavirus Drinkathon Part 8

Coronavirus Drinkathon Part 7

Joe Gilmour Thoughts

The last week has been exceptionally busy – so no blog posts, but plenty of drinking . A quick bottle this Thursday eve. 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Les Olivets Roger Sabon I’ve always enjoyed the wines of Roger Sabon but I did approach this with some concerns. Ripe vintatge – getting old. A wine from the era when CNDP was stretched towards unhinged opulence. The first sniff and taste and I did think – this is too old. But after two minutes, it opened up, the wrinkles seemed to disappear and it started to limber up beautifully. “You walked in like old father …

Joe GilmourCoronavirus Drinkathon Part 7