2017 Bourgogne Aligote Le Clou 34 Claire Naudin-Ferrand
“Stimulation in body and cell.
For the good and misguided.
Desperation I’m under your spell.
Misunderstood and derided.
Gimme new kicks
I want to go deeper
Never been to keen a timekeeper
Show me new tricks
You can get me on the beeper
I’m a pure new pleasure seeker.”
There are as many ways to enjoy wine as there are wines to drink. The quirky. The drink so fast it could be apple juice. The serious. The difficult. The great disappointments. One follows one. Peak follows trough.
But pleasure, that’s important. A wine must deliver pleasure.
This was what I was pondering when I thought about the 2017 vintage of Le Clou 34. The 2014 was one of the most staggeringly profound expressions of Aligote in the modern era. To my mind better than Coche. Better than Ente. Better than Roulot. A true work of art. An Aligote of pleasure and profundity. A one off?
The 2017 is very good, but to me it seems to amp up the serious and forgo the swaggering drinkability of the 2014. It is a very nice wine but it is so painfully understated and refined that you want to drunkenly jab it with your elbow and tell it to cheer up a bit.
Save me from fading afraid.
The tears of a fool on parade.
Quietly turn into stone.
Make me flesh and bone