Drinking old Italian wines can be like licking god’s coat-tails, but has the era between 1960 and 1980 yielded more misses than hits?
I think so. Here are my reasons why and some non-scientific thoughts on a recent dinner and tasting.
Not Bartolo, not Gaja, not Conterno, not Rinaldi, not him, not her. Sure. These are some of the historic greats of the world. But they are the exceptions not the rule. Not only that, but they are I think exceptional in a way that is unique to Italy and not France.
There’s so much stuff, that could, that should be interesting after thirty years that has just departed from the world of joy.
Barolo, Brunello, Vino Nobile, these were not wines that sold off their silky newness, they were supposed to age. But most of them didn’t. Some tell me that traditionally there was less binning of wines, that they were often left upright and the corks dried, which is a novel explanation of why many wines have not aged too well. Well maybe, but I’m not convinced.
At my previous company, Roberson, we organised a tasting with a pretty representative sample of Italian wines of the 50s, 60s and 70s, We opened fifty wines, and how many did we truly enjoy?
How many were truly alive? Five? Six?
Maybe my sample size is too small. Certainly the general quality of Italian winemaking today is light and day with the wines made in the 60s and 70s.
This impression was somewhat re-enforced in a recent tasting with a supplier in Piedmont. We were in Mondovi, just half an hour or so from Monforte d’Alba, a historic town where old and young parts are linked by a nifty funicular railway. Top speed 30 miles an hour, which seemed unnecessarily quick.
2002 Pol Roger
Top stuff, compressed like a spring and with plenty of power in reserve.
2011 Chablis 1er Butteaux Raveneau
This seemed to be infused with a herby, almost bitter character. When 2011 is done well, they can be lovely, approachable wines that delivery real pleasure, this seemed to lack the purity and precision that one associates with this estate. A disappointment, which is rare with the wines of Raveneau
2009 Riesling Kabinett Scharzhofberger
Although from a warmer vintage, this had precise minerality and a creamy, lemony style. A real balm for the palate.
1997 50/50 Avignonese
A stunning nose of substantial depth and cool mint freshness but lacked a bit of cohesion on the finish. Maybe just starting to turn.
2007 Chateau de Fonsalette Rouge
Another hot vintage, which is not almost becoming a sort of criticism as we worship at the alter of the fresh and the elegant. But in the Rayas style, so super-elegant, cherry infused light in colour. Really very good indeed and with some years to go.
1994 Haut Brion
Pretty good but a bit unexciting to be honest. I think I’ve had this before and enjoyed it more, so maybe a bad bottle, or maybe a bit too subtle at a tasting like this.
1990 Lafleur Petrus
Really vegetal and with not much in the way of elegance. A real disappointment in such a good vintage. Not really sure how you get so much green character in such a dry and hot vintage.
Unidentified vintage Barolo Riserva Brunate M.Marengo
I brought this from the local wine shop (100 Euro) in Morra. No neck vintage, but from the style of the label it is at least pre 1995 or so. Thoughts odds were decent on this one. Very useful producer, great levels, the guy in the shop was telling me how he was considering buying it for himself. Er…no, absolutely shot to bits. Poor storage? Not even in the ball-park of being drinkable.
1996 Barolo Faletto Red Label Riserva Giacosa
I feel perhaps I didn’t give this wine enough time. There is a Giacosa style that is hard to find elsewhere. Reminds me of Pinot Noir in the same way that Reynaud’s wines do. It was getting better all of the time, but I’d drunk most of it by then. Even so, I was expecting to find a bit more to like.
1964 Barolo (Alba) Unidentified producer
Buggered
1961 Barolo Oddero
Really nice – showing very freshly and smoothly. Excellent wine.
1964 Barolo Riserva Oddero
Buggered.
1947 Tokaji Szamorodni Dry Budafok
Sweet – not a lot of complexity but very nice.
1960s Barolo Chinato Cappellano
I quite liked this, but very developed – the restaurant owner thought it was buggered, but I don’t know what his credentials are with old Chinato – better than mine no doubt.
