The avant-garde Bruno is surely one of the most fascinating producers in Alsace. Part of the "Gang of Five" with Pierre Frick, Christian Binner, Jean-Pierre Rietsch, and Patrick Meyer, the are pushing the boundarys for what Alsace wine is really all about. Low sulphor, small quantities, wines that are really alive and vibrant. Bruno is somewhat of an under-rated leader of the natural wine movement as well, where a procession of bright young things including Kenjiro Kagami have passed under his wing to learn his meticulous and experimental methods of working.
The avant-garde Bruno is surely one of the most fascinating producers in Alsace. Part of the "Gang of Five" with Pierre Frick, Christian Binner, Jean-Pierre Rietsch, and Patrick Meyer, the are pushing the boundarys for what Alsace wine is really all about. Low sulphor, small quantities, wines that are really alive and vibrant. Bruno is somewhat of an under-rated leader of the natural wine movement as well, where a procession of bright young things including Kenjiro Kagami have passed under his wing to learn his meticulous and experimental methods of working.
The avant-garde Bruno is surely one of the most fascinating producers in Alsace. Part of the "Gang of Five" with Pierre Frick, Christian Binner, Jean-Pierre Rietsch, and Patrick Meyer, the are pushing the boundarys for what Alsace wine is really all about. Low sulphor, small quantities, wines that are really alive and vibrant. Bruno is somewhat of an under-rated leader of the natural wine movement as well, where a procession of bright young things including Kenjiro Kagami have passed under his wing to learn his meticulous and experimental methods of working.
The avant-garde Bruno is surely one of the most fascinating producers in Alsace. Part of the "Gang of Five" with Pierre Frick, Christian Binner, Jean-Pierre Rietsch, and Patrick Meyer, the are pushing the boundarys for what Alsace wine is really all about. Low sulphor, small quantities, wines that are really alive and vibrant. Bruno is somewhat of an under-rated leader of the natural wine movement as well, where a procession of bright young things including Kenjiro Kagami have passed under his wing to learn his meticulous and experimental methods of working.
The avant-garde Bruno is surely one of the most fascinating producers in Alsace. Part of the "Gang of Five" with Pierre Frick, Christian Binner, Jean-Pierre Rietsch, and Patrick Meyer, the are pushing the boundarys for what Alsace wine is really all about. Low sulphor, small quantities, wines that are really alive and vibrant. Bruno is somewhat of an under-rated leader of the natural wine movement as well, where a procession of bright young things including Kenjiro Kagami have passed under his wing to learn his meticulous and experimental methods of working.
"A deep garnet hue. The nose is typical 1990 with game, dried blood and a touch of beef on the precocious, fat nose. With aeration there is a stronger sense of black cherry cheesecake. The palate if full-bodied, very well focused with fine tannins. Not as “hot” as other 1990’s with more control and elan. Firm structure, this is a solid Canon with bold Cabernet Franc notes towards the long finish. Excellent. Drink 2010-2035. Tasted September 2007." 93 Points Neal Martin
"The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jeune Rois has a giving bouquet with perfumed red cherries and crushed strawberry laced with lavender and pot pourri scents, though these do not overpower the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit, a fine line of acidity, gentle in terms of grip with a caressing, velvet smooth finish. Gorgeous" 92 Points Neal Martin
"The aroma is silken, gives airs of suave cassis and raspberry, blackberry jam, a note of licorice. The palate is gourmand, open and evident. It bears fluid fruit with a gradual pick-up of light tannin. There are aromatic pockets along the palate. This ends on a jam fruit finale; I find it in transition between youth and second stage, and Franck says it works best when opened for 24 hours. It is suave wine with sound body, pretty genuine, the late juice fine. Bottled April 2014. 2026-27" **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
"Glass-staining ruby. Suave, mineral-accented aromas of boysenberry, cherry liqueur, violet and allspice, and a smoky note that expands in the glass. Offers palate-staining red and blue fruit flavors complemented by notes of spicecake and candied flowers. Powerful but also lithe and precise, finishing with outstanding clarity, a sexy floral note and silky tannins that come in late." 94 Points Josh Reynolds
"Vivid ruby. Pungent and expansive on the nose, displaying heady scents of dark berry liqueur, licorice, olive, incense and minerals. Sappy and precise on the palate, offering concentrated but energetic black and blue fruit, floral pastille and spicecake flavors complemented by a suggestion of peppery spices. Becomes sweeter and fleshier with air with no loss of vivacity. Harmonious tannins add shape and grip to the spicy, extremely long finish. " 93-95 Points Josh Reynolds
"Bright purple. Powerful, smoke-accented aromas of ripe dark berries, licorice, olive and incense on the deeply perfumed nose. Juicy and sharply delineated on the palate, offering concentrated, mineral-accented boysenberry, cherry liqueur and spicecake flavors that show alluring sweetness and no rough edges. In an ample but energetic style, finishing sweet and extremely long; building tannins contribute framework and youthful grip." 93-96 Points Josh Reynolds
"Healthy robe; full, complete bouquet, violet/chocolate mix. Full palate, with cooked, not excessive flavours - red fruits. Broad, solid wine, lot of content. Well filled, fair end freshness. Esp 2008-09 on. 2019-21" **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
"The nose gives some reduction, and goes almost towards Grenache with cooked plum. Light muskiness, floral, a sense of strawberry coulis, mocha and cocoa. There is a spice-pepper theme along the palate, which bears black fruits, the sign of a “dark” vintage; this is a spinal wine, with tannins pushing forward drily. It’s interesting, not a facile wine. The juice has thickness, and the tannins are butty. It is pretty much a rectangle in shape – it is serious, dark Côte-Rôtie that will live well. It will be good to cellar this – take your time with it. 12.5°. “It is starting to round out; it wasn’t possible to get into when it was young, unless you decanted it, and drank it with game. It is more rich, and has more structure than the 2014,” **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
"The nose is close-knit, wide. The palate holds a dense black jam flavour, is more southern than northern, with black olives, vigorous but also bright tannins, a sturdy make-up that shows the effect of the hot summer. It’s inky on the finish. This is thick wine, less floral than usual, on stewed black fruits it is. “It’s concentrated,” Maxime Champet. 13°. From 2021. 2034-36 March 20" **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
"Gleaming dark red robe; the nose is rather chunky, on cherry fruits, raspberry, is dense, a bit unyielding, has a dab of rock smoke. The palate is also compact, firm, frees up enough for black berry juice which is thick. There’s a surge of wide tannins at the end, the close gummy, layered. This is structured to live, and not be drunk early. It brings on vegetal assertion, and is demanding on the close. “It has a bit more flesh and length than Le Vin des Amis this year,” Olivier Clape. 13°. Bottled Aug 2018. From 2021 – it’s best to wait. 2034-36" **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
"Has an extraordinarily inky, dark robe. Has an oily, sunny, savoury nose with a little raisin evident. The palate is tightly packed, marked by violet and black berry jam – a sweet-toned black cherry. Has a lozenge flavour, with a rounded, slightly jam finish. A real one-off with this sweet amplitude, one that drinks OK now. 2018-21 Dec 2006 Previously Sept 2005 **** full, dark-tinted robe. Tight-knit black fruits on a smoky bouquet, deep-seated vintage ripeness, meaty and violet mix also. Lightly scented black berry flavour, has a sound mid-palate, runs on harmoniously, there is attractive vinosity here. Meaty, southern, with olive tinges, the oiled finale gives hope for its longevity. Drinkable now. From 2007. 2017-21" **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
"The robe is tawny, has a Madeira tone with a lot of heart – looks like a Rancio, a Banyuls with youth, as it were. Holds a wide, silken, evolved aroma, led by plum jam, with ground coffee beans and toffee, also some fungal, not especially clean, notes. The palate is sealed, with red stone fruits, plum, nuts and dates present. It persists really well, the texture is indeed woven and compact all through. Its richness is delivered with a tender touch - this is a very “sensible”, orderly wine. Some animal shows up late on – not excessive. Is a bit fundamental and reduced, a wine of some muscle and shoulders still. At first, there is a fungal manner, then it becomes more round and rich on the finish as it airs. From the old school of winemaking, truth rather than cellar artifice handed out to the drinker. Not for the squeaky clean brigade. 2023-2" ****** John Livingstone-Learmonth
"Dried flowers, pot-pourri air with pure red fruit, such as strawberry, notes of acetate, high tone in it. Has a tarry late moment. The palate has a direct, arrow-like start, also I find firm, acetate notes, a varnish effect, then a farmyard later stage. It comes and goes a lot, gains a gras, assured late stage, so it is more inviting there. Correct for the vintage as it is showing now – the dry, dusty year. It is flirting with life beyond the cliff edge. 2017-18" ***(*) John Livingstone-Learmonth
"Bacon, smoke, mulberry and blackberry appear in a bouquet that is softly floral., has rose flower presence. This is varied, stimulating, centres on the spark of granite cut. The palate comes with nerve, gives free flow dark red fruits, mulberry central, with brisk tannins that carry fresh edging. This is real rockster wine, dentelle and smoked, with granite violet notes and a texture of grain. It’s an intricate Hermitage, issues fine red juice. There are late floral notes on the aftertaste. This is high on character, STGT wine." **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
"The Main Man, apart from the 1961. A wine that has evolved in a predictable, steady way. Half the normal crop. From the start it was very full, with a high but pretty ripe tannic content. It also hasn't moved much since the mid-1990s. Top grade southern wine, a joy for people who like PROPER TASTE in their red wines. March 2011: the robe is remarkably dark still, just a shift towards the top – the centre is dark red. The bouquet has a sweet-toned, rather fungal, core of plum fruit, sweet tea, baked bread – it is full and continuous, its black fruit softly scented. As it evolves, a Pinot farmyard note emerges – in the best Hermitage noble traditions, a Pinot nature comes through. Air releases further variety – blackberry, beef stock, an elusive southern fragrance and oiliness. The palate bears finely laced red fruit with a shimmer of tannin in a light sprinkle, a gentle drumbeat. This has great poise, and its tannins are fresh still, beautiful in their precise distribution. Lovely dancing fruit here on the palate, and an aftertaste of refined extension. Exceptional wine, which I rate a notch or so ahead of the 1990 – it is more complex and more subtle. 2026-19" ****** John Livingstone-Learmonth
"nicely maturing robe of dark red, traces of fading purple, a touch of top brick on it. Evolving Syrah bouquet - the mineral aspect of this more tannic year evident, some cough syrup, and a warm ending, quite pretty. Squeezed ripe fruit on palate, a touch of prune, some peppered dried black fruits. Good sinew. Classic Hermitage style, quite upright with a gently plump middle. The vintage stamped on it. Has regained its place after lack of terroir when four years old." ***** John Livingstone Learmonth
"Brewed, smoky toasted nose - coffee/mocha, warm cooked stone fruit - it is deep and varied. It has an assertive, dry-toned texture with a warm centre. Southern tones here - raspberry fruit with good underlay. There is some richness, oil at the end. It is upright at this stage, has likeable punch. It develops a more prune flavour with air. It reminds me of 1960s-1970s Chapelles. It is a bit dumb now, was more exuberant. 2007-08 on. 2022-2" **** John Livingstone-Learmonth
"Good full ruby. Aromas of blackberry, cassis, menthol and bitter chocolate. Extremely ripe and impressively dense (the alcohol is 15. 2%), with port-like flavors of black fruits and dark chocolate. Very rich but just this side of heavy. Finishes with powerful but fine tannins. Impressive for this classique bottling. This will be approachable early but has the stuffing to age." 90-93 Points Stephen Tanzer
"Even better than the 1990, the 1982 Unico is simply one of the very best wines I have tasted in some time. Powerful, fleshy and full of energy, the 1982 Unico is another wine that is almost overwhelmingly beautiful. A striking mélange of savory herbs, smoke and tobacco add complexity, but the 1982 is about the total package. And the 1982 has it all going on. In a word: Magnificent." 98 Points Antonio Galloni
