Double B(l)ind

Joe Gilmour Evenings Out

Double Bind – def: –

  1. double bind is an emotionally distressing dilemma in communication in which an individual (or group) receives two or more conflicting messages, and one message negates the other.


A few friends involved in wine in one way of another, some buying, some selling came round to mine last week for a meal and some blind tasting. As decanters were surreptitiously filled, traps set, we got stock into the confidence roller-coaster that leaves you going from master taster to ‘I know less about wine than I did ten years ago’ within the space of 10 minutes. What I say is hang onto your successes and forget the failures. A job the brain usually accomplishes pretty well for itself thank god, or else I’d still be rueing that penalty miss for Florance Park in the under-fifteen final at the local stadium.

A slow-cooked pork shoulder from the excellent local butchers flock and herd (www.flockandherd.com) proved  appropriately hearty sustenance for this most difficult of ordeals.

We started with a pair of whites.

2008 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos Maltroie Michel Niellon

2009 Riesling Westhofener Abts Erde GG Keller

We actually had 2 bottles of the Chassagne and the 2nd showed much better with lovely smoky, mineral notes. The first had a slightly bitter note on the finish. People were all in Burgundy but were guessing more towards the Puligny then the Chassage side. This was one of mine.

The colour of the Keller looked like a much older wine which I have to say was more to do with the terrible condition of the decanter then the wine. I did feel though that the richness was on the edge of being too much for my taste. I guessed Riesling, I guessed Germany,  I guessed Prum, I guessed early 2000’s. I was wrong.

1981 El Coto Rioja Crianza

1970 Solar de Samaniego

Two oldish Rioja’s both with lovely freshness. People were guessing around Bordeaux, some flirted with Rioja. I though the 1970 was an old vintage of Cornas from a classic producer. Really embarrassing.

1988 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert

2006 Nuits-St-George 1er Clos de la Marechale JF Mugnier

Well, the Crozes was mine. Started quite compressed but opened wonderfully with air. Really generous and full. People guessed mid nineties Cote Rotie mostly. The Mugnier screamed Burgundy so we were all united in that one. I guessed Chambolle as it had this lovely perfumed and I think I guessed premier cru as it had this wonderful precision to it. Not powerful but very fine as Clive Coates would have it.

2006 Brunello di Montalcino Conta Constanti

I guessed Northern Italy, from a natural style producer so was quite shocked to see it was Brunello. It just seemed so fresh and have so much in the way of violet fruit, I couldn’t believe it had been in oak so long and was so old. It tasted fresh as a daisy. I adored this and it was my favourite wine of the night.

1988 Vouvray Clos Naudin

A very nice accompaniment to the cheese. I reckoned late eighties Coteaux de Layon so I reckon I did alright with this one. Really good freshness and body.

So, that was it. A mound of washing up and 2 socks left under the table inexplicabl

Joe GilmourDouble B(l)ind