There was a section of the American winemaker community that was very pleased with itself in the early to mid 2000s. Why not? The wines were selling well, to high prices and critical applause from influential critics. It seemed like since 1998, every vintage was ‘perfect’. But the forward-looking saw storm clouds ahead. Wells Guthrie of Copain, maker of some these wines was going into his cellar and didn’t like what he tasted. They were too big, they hadn’t evolved how we wanted them to. What had happened? He wanted something with the etherality and refreshingness of Burgundy or Cote-Rotie, and he couldn’t find it, no matter how many cases he opened. It was from this movement of dissatisfaction and outward appreciation of lower alcohol, cool climate styles from Jura, Burgundy and the Loire that gave birth to a movement in wine that created estates like Arnot-Roberts, Domaine de la Cote, Sandlands, Copain and others. I wrote a bit about this and the In Pursuit of Balance movement here.

Ceritas made their first wine in 2005 and immediately set out their stall as one of the finest proponents of cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in America. To understand why their wines are so good, you can look back on their past experience. John worked for exemplary estates like Flowers, Rhys, Copain as they were questing for the best sites in California to grow cool-climate, ripe grapes and Phoebe Bass, whose lineage in wine goes back to the storied Porter-Bass vineyard, a source they continue to use.

The other sources that they have found, Charles Heintz, Hellenthal, and Peter Martin-Ray, are clearly blessed spots, and suitable for a winemaking approach that is guided by what the wines need, and less a specific style that John is trying to render. Their 2,000 case production is popular – their wines have now become some of the most sought after – particularly in the NY restaurant scene.

Comparisons are reductive, and tend to condescend what is Californian about these wines, but Ceritas seem to remind me of wines like Dauvissat Chablis and Lafarge Volnay. Styles of elegance, freshness and fine detail, not obvious in size, tannin or ripeness of fruit. It is this poise that also gives them great energy and longevity – We had a 2008 Pinot Noir last year, and it was incredible, with a rich and rewarding life still very much ahead of it.